I'm really thrilled to be able to finally talk about this. It's only been going on for a few years! Back in 2008, at the International Medieval Congress, I was asked if I would like to contribute to an encyclopedia of medieval textile terms. Because the paper I presented at the time was about passementerie, I was asked to contribute under that heading. Time passed, I gave a little paragraph, (there was a very strict word count involved) and then time passed again. And then I was asked to expand the piece, so I did, happily - passementerie is a pretty big subject actually, even when some individual items will be having their own entry. And then time passed again.
Well, last week, the contributors list was distributed, (and I am so thrilled to be included with these scholars) and so I figure now's as good a time as any to let everyone know!
To quote from the official website-
The single volume Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450 is a unique work that intends to bring together the latest research from across the range of disciplines which contribute to our knowledge of medieval dress and textiles.
Yay! And I am the contributing author for the passementerie entry.
And yes, I am as pleased as punch!
Seriously, this look as though it will a great book for so many of you who follow this blog. Entries include just about everything you could think of. And hopefully lots of libraries will have it - it's a pricey one .....
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Monday, May 02, 2011
Frogs - in the best company
It is easy to forget that frogging needn't always be about actually fastening a garment - far from it! Decorative frogs can be so effective, adding that extra 'something'.
These examples are samples I have just sent out for a client to choose a style. All of these are made using a gimp thread - the different cords have all been hand-spun using the gimp, while the buttons utilise the gimp in different ways.
It's interesting how different look can be achieved with the same basic materials. And of course, these are spun-cords. If they had been braided or knotted or used in other different ways then the frogs would look completly different again.
The colours too make such a difference. These are bold because of the black and gold, yet those on the mother of the bride's outfit were subtle and understated.
And the BEST bit? The papers are currently actually using the words passementerie and braiding to describe it!
Sunday, May 01, 2011
Deaths Head buttons - samples, different thread types
Here is the promised picture. Each of these Death's head leek buttons were worked over a flat disc mould, 20mm dia.
1. 60/2 spun silk thread
2. 720 denier filament silk thread (tight twist)
3. 5/2 Perl cotton
4. 6-strand embroidery cotton
5. Viscose gimp thread (bourdon cord)
6. 2000 denier filament silk knitting thread (Como)
7. Fine worsted wool
8. #40 Crochet cotton
9. 1200 deneir filament silk thread (loose twist)
10. Knitting wool
As you can see, different threads give quite different effects using the same basic technique. The thick threads, such as the gimp and the thick knitting wool do need extra holding stitches at the reverse, and make quite a bulky button. Which is fine, but does illustrate the point that when making and passementerie buttons, the buttonhole should be worked after the button, to ensure that there's enough room for the button!
You should also try to think ahead as to the use of a button - the thicker threads have a tendancy to move on the face of the button when going through a buttonhole, and so could look untidy. These types of threads are often better used when the button is purely decorative.
I have not included a central holding cross stitch on any of these buttons, but this is one technique that can help to ensure that the threads of the finer types stay in place when the button is in use.
If you'd like to learn how to make the Death's Head leek button, you'll find the techniques on my Making Buttons dvd.
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