Gina-B Silkwork & Passementerie Blog

Happy New Year! It is still January, I can still say it...

2012-01-25T12:39:00.000Z

Hello! I am so sorry I have been lapse with the blog at the moment. Though I really must encourage you to 'like' my Facebook page or follow me on Twitter @GinaBSilkwork as I do tend to make small, quick daily updates there, very useful when I really don't want to bore you with paragraphs of nothing.

I hope that you all had a good holiday season - isn't it hard to believe that it wasn't that long ago? Seems ages already. Here in the midlands of England, it has really been odd weather-wise, so very mild that my quince already has flowers and I noticed a small rose yesterday. Mind you, the wind has been terrible, and living up on a hill, wind like that can get really irritating. Still for something different, a picture of me, DH and our lovely dog Bo, out for an early morning walk the other week. (getting arty, what can I say?)

And so, on to news and other such things. We've been busy putting together the next two DVDs in the set - Making Braids & Cords and Making Frogs & Fancies. Making Braids is due out in February, with Making Frogs in March. Then we'll start on the next titles on the list! (Believe me, the list is very long...). Yes, The Making Passementerie series is going to keep me very busy this year.

We are also working on the most brilliant thing. I can't give out too much info yet, but it is practical, pretty and if you like passementerie, you'll need it. More info as I can give it out - prototypes are all working well, just a little bit of tweaking and we'll have it. We're looking at March for a launch of this.

So, as I said over on Facebook - the gods of all things electric have to play nice. (The gods of lighting already got mad and I am waiting on new studio lights, so I need to try to appease the others or my schedule will be blown!)

I have a double page spread in this quarter's issue of the Create & Craft Club members' magazine - yes, you do have to be a member to get this so here's a little pic of the spread-

And next month I will have a project in Popular Crafts magazine - so do stay tuned!

I am also currently pencilled in to join Create & Craft at the Stitch & Craft show at the Olympia in London - at the moment it looks like I'll be there on the 18th, but nothing's confirmed as yet.

And so, shows - I'll be on Create & Craft this Saturday (28th) at 2pm - and I hope to have a little project for you that uses buttons, with a pattern to download from my site next week. (Again, hoping those electric gods are nice to me..)

After that, I'm scheduled in for the 18th of Feb at 2pm (early days yet - that one could still change of course).

Do tune in if you can - I always have a little something to give away to whoever's email is drawn from the spotty potty, so remember that you can contact the show for a chance to win.

And, on top of all that, I am still working on commissions! I shall be starting a very intricate gold brocade tablet weave - based on the Taplow finds - and I am looking forward to getting on with that. It has been a while since I've done any tablet weaving it seems.

I hope that you all have a healthy, happy and lucky 2012, and thank you all for following me and my ramblings - I appreciate it!

'Tis the season!

2011-12-12T14:13:00.001Z

Wow, I'm sorry it has been an age since I last updated. I seem to have been running around like a slightly mad woman, and every time I think that I should update the blog, something else interferes. And so, before the month of December totally interferes with any more of my lists, I am updating!

It's been a month of writing articles and tutorials, planning, packing, and even making a few things...

Of course, for me as with so many of you, the holidays are a time for doing other things as well - not least making sure the house is clean enough for visitors - in other words - MOVE the thread from every room! Clear the supplies from the dining table! Move the loom to make space for the tree!

All of that is now done, and I have even started the baking. Every year, if I make nothing else, I make my grandmother's nut bread. And every year I stress about it, because I don't normally make bread. And every year I wonder why I only do this at Christmas, as it tastes lovely and I would do a much better job if I was had more practise!

I will be working on New Year's Day this year - I'll be on Create & Craft at 2pm - so if you are staying at home nursing a bit of a sore head, why not join me :-)

Thank you to every one who has supported me this year. I'm working on some really exciting projects that I am hoping to share in early 2012, and knowing that many of you are actually interested is a great thing.

I hope that you all have a lovely holiday season and a very happy and healthy 2012.

...right... Christmas cards next I think....

Autumn

2011-11-09T14:08:00.000Z

It's been quite a lovely autumn weather-wise here in the Midlands. Which is a good thing really - for some reason October is one of my least favourite months. I seem to always have a huge amount of paperwork, cleaning and general 'don't like' jobs, and by the time the month has finished I am usually glad to see the back of it.

But, the weather was so unseasonal that one Good Thing has come of it -we were able to take some really long walks through the surrounding fields. We are able to go onto the fields when there are no crops - but of course that usually means MUD. So, it tends to be avoided and instead we stick to walking up the road. I found some interesting bits of pottery, (though knowing nothing about pottery it is probably just ordinary stuff!)

Look how green everything is - this was only on the 28th of October!

Many thanks to those of you who have been in touch since I was last on Create & Craft - that was a last-minute decision! I shall be on again this Sunday (13th November) at 8am - with the second DVD title - Making More Buttons. Whereas Making Buttons focused on wrapped buttons in the Leek tradition, Making More Buttons concentrates on needleworked buttons such as the Dorset Crosswheel, Knob and others. (I do love the traditional names of some buttons!) . So, another early start - do join me if you can, and email into the studio! (In keeping with Create & Craft tradition, there will be a little something made by me which will go to whoever sends in the email which gets drawn from the pot).

Of course, that has meant the last two weeks have been - and still are - all about me working very hard to get interesting samples sorted out in order to ensure that the set is well-dressed! I shall probably be at it until late Saturday!

We are also busy working on the next titles in the series, and some other rather exciting things, which I really hope are able to get sorted.

Have a lovely weekend

New items in my shop and little updates

2011-10-21T10:22:00.000+01:00

It's been a very busy couple of weeks for me, and most it isn't stuff that those of you who follow my blog will actually want to read! It is however the usual case for October, it does tend to be a paperwork month.
But, some of that paperwork has been developing new kits for the shop, including kits to accompany the Making More Buttons dvd, and thread packs.

('Candy' thread selection pack)

I've written an article, and am currently writing the scripts for the next two titles in the Making Passementerie series, as well as working on samples. And as an aside - I've been working on a puppet. Another very interesting project.... ! So all in all very busy.

However, I am hoping some of you may be able to help. Fibrecrafts used to so a range of worsted wool, 28/2 in a variety of colours. They are no longer supplying this super fine weight, does anyone know of who does? It does really need to be wortsed, as it needs to be the long staple as my intention is to use it for weaving. I don't mind going up to the next size, but a couple of my clients want the finest, as even that isn't quite as fine as some historic examples!

In case you didn't know, I will be back at Create & Craft tv tomorrow (Saturday) at noon. And a November date has been pencilled in as well. It is proving alot of fun - I am surprised how much I am enjoying it, though really it isn't very different from doing a demo in costume at an historic site. So, if you are in the mood to watch, you can see it on Sky 671 | Freeview 36 | Freesat 813 or watch online at http://www.createandcraft.tv/ShowGridView.aspx (this link takes you to the current live programme, so should work)

How to.... Unwind a thread skein without help

2011-10-11T11:56:00.000+01:00

Good morning! Though by the time I publish this it'll be the afternoon now - it's been quite a busy morning!

Thank you for all your positive comments about the Create & Craft show on Sunday - I'm glad that you enjoyed the show. As requested, and for those of you who may have missed it when I demo'ed this - here's an easy way to unwind a skein of thread without the need for another person to hold the skein.

Use a piece of cardboard or an embroidery bobbin to wrap the thread around. You may find that you need to adjust the final loop so that the thread flows, but all-in-all this works well, and is pretty important for those of us who use skeins of thread for other purposes than embroidery and need longer lengths (I know that many serious embroiderers will simply cut the skein, as they tend to work with smaller lengths of thread anyway).

This is not my invention or idea at all - this comes from Weldons Encyclopedia of Needlework, no publication date, but judging from the insertion regarding paper supplies, this was published at the start of the war. (The styles also indicate the 30s).

Sunny September and Buttonholes

2011-10-05T14:08:00.000+01:00

For those of you here in the UK, you know what I mean - the weather was quite wonderful last week and although it is colder now, really, for a change, we mustn't complain! 've been enjoying the fact that we can walk with the dog through the fields, as all of the crops have now been brought in, yet my feet aren't covered in mud at the end of the walk (which is what usually happens!)

This week has been a flurry of getting ready - I'll be back on Create and Craft this Sunday at 2pm, I'm really looking forward to it, not least because it is an afternoon show! I won't have to get up at 4am this time. ;-)
I do hope that you'll tune in if you are able.

On the same theme as buttons, I have decided that I really need more practice with buttonholes. Let's face it, they do tend to be the more boring part of buttons, and yet a recent article over at Your Wardrobe Unlock'd by Jo Tyrell (Perfect Hand Sewn Buttonholes) did really remind me that I should put in more practice here. A good buttonhole really can bring focus to the button. I'm afraid that, despite the fact that I love hand sewing, my buttonholes often leave a bit to be desired!

So, I decided to start with something completely different, and that I have never tried before - a triangular buttonhole. This is something which really does require concentration, but, I am really pleased with my very first attempt - by no means perfect, but pretty cool just the same, and what a nice way to show off a passementerie button.

I've decided that I will keep on this track, practicing different types of buttonholes, I think that I may put together a fabric book, with samples of passementerie, etc. It's something I've wanted to to for some time, and I think that concentrating on one 'page' at a time will be a good way to relax in between working on all of the projects I am in the middle of doing!

And these other projects? I've just finished another article for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd (pencilled for publication in Nov) - giving away more trade secrets! I'm also working on the next two DVDs, more of that another time I think!

And this week, I'll mostly be talking about ....

2011-09-15T17:13:00.000+01:00

It's been quite a busy week for me - thank you so much for everyone's good wishes and kind words regarding my Create & Craft show! It really was such an enjoyable experience. Debbie Shore, the presenter, put me at ease right away, and the crew were super friendly as well. But more importantly, it seemed as though everyone really enjoyed what they were doing - even as early as 7am (while setting up) on a Sunday morning.

For those of you who are regular viewers - it really is as nice an atmosphere as you think!

Here's a picture of me in the Green Room before the show - my little 'rest' in between setting up and going live.

I was simply happy that my hands weren't shaking like they did in the screen test, and I pretty much remembered what I wanted to remember...! We're discussing when I'll be going back, so you'll all be the first to know. ;-)

But, there's no rest for the wicked! I've had a rush job for a length of fine ribbon - in itself not a problem, I had paced myself so that I wasn't doing it all in one go. However, for some reason that I can't explain, I used the wrong heddles. Not noticeable initially, it was only as I was about halfway through that I realised the heddles were shredding the silk, creating a fluffy ribbon. Not pretty, so away it came, and I started over. And, by 2am, had completed the new ribbon. I've been asked to post a picture of the fuzzy one on my website, so I will try over the weekend. (It will get posted on my Facebook page). I have decided it will be good to try out rosettes or something.

For today instead, how about a picture of some pretty Singleton-style buttons -

I really like how these turned out - they are simple enough, I know, but by mixing two colours of fine silk thread, the match with the 'changeable' silk fabric worked really well.

And so, onwards and upwards. Two more ribbons to weave and some fly fringe - with roses - to figure out. I am quite lucky you know!

Getting closer....

2011-09-07T14:56:00.000+01:00

As you can imagine, I'm busy getting things ready for Create & Craft this week - finishing off samples (and thinking of new things to make), that sort of thing. It feels very weird to see my name on the tv listings page though! And yes, I am beginning to feel just a little nervous, when I stop to think about it. (I know, so the answer to this is don't think about it!)

It hasn't been all about buttons though, I have been working on some tassels!

Below is a before and after of a Victorian fan tassel. The tassel really had seen better days - not surprising as it has been hanging from a lovely fan for so long.

Because this will be used (in the first instance as part of a bridal ensemble) I decided to start from scratch, and carefully remove everything. I was very interested to see that the skirt had been glued to the inside of the mould - as had the cord. This is quite interesting, as we are always led to believe that historically glue wasn't used with textiles, and if we use it today we are somehow "cheating". And really, the skirt would not have stayed in place on this mould without the glue, despite the covered ball under the skirt. (which I kept with the originally covering, just to keep with the 'something old'!)

The 'jasmines' hanging at the skirt were originally fine coils of wire. So fine in fact, that I was unable to find anything suitable as a replacement (as I really did not want to use some rather ugly grey jewellery wire - the only thing that was nearly fine enough).

*note to self, begin sourcing super fine wire in a gold colour!

So, I decided instead to make a very fine cord in the purple silk, which matched the top binding and the colour scheme for the wedding. The gold lattice uses a gilt thread and the little beads on the original are simply gorgeous.

The next tassel is for the bride's purse, using similar elements design-wise, but all new materials. The more 'squat' appearance of the head should fit well at the bottom of a reticule-style bag.

The next two tassel will adorn a Victorian gown, decorating the bustle area if I recall correctly! The gimp used on these knots is hand-wrapped. It really is the only way sometimes, as gimp thread is becomming harder and harder to find these days - and when you do, it is viscose. Now, I haven't got anything against it per se, it is just that sometimes it can seem harsh colour-wise when using it with real silk. So, if matching is needed, it is often easier to work elements from the same type of thread. And sometimes, the extra effort is just nice.

So, I'll finish with another reminder - Create & Craft this Sunday, 8am...

hopefully you aren't bored of me mentioning it yet!

The button countdown begins....

2011-08-31T11:02:00.000+01:00

It is official - I will be appearing live on the Create & Craft channel on Sunday, Sept. 11 at 8am, during one of the sewing shows. I will be demonstrating some of the techniques in my Making Buttons DVD, and hopefully not making a fool of myself with shaking hands - or even worse, freezing! (I can see it now, Mad Button Lady Comes Loose).

So, you can watch it on the following channels - Sky 671 | Freeview 36 | Freesat 813 or watch live online -

Seriously though, I am looking forward to it. I have been really busy working on various samples showing the thread wrapped buttons being used for other purposes than just historical costuming. Now, I am one who already changes coat buttons to passementerie ones and actually uses passementerie generally more than most - I guess I am bound to! But it can be a little bit of a challenge to try to ensure that I am showing examples suitable for all levels of ability.

I wanted to share this lovely picture sent to me by a client. It is so nice to see a finished garment with the trimmings (in this case the buttons) that I have supplied - it looks so much better than a picture of just some buttons! (And I do love the shape of that cuff - always have)

Recently I was asked if I knew anything about a Yorkshire button industry. There is a passementerie worked button which is being called a Yorkshire Button. This button is worked with back stitch in the same way as a Dorset button, only this is worked on a 'loom' or form and then used to cover a button mould. It seems that the info relating to this only states that Yorkshire had a button industry like Dorset or Leek - but with no further information, and it does seem as though all of this info is coming from the same source (but I can't pinpoint what that source is).

I certainly cannot find anything in any of my books, although it does seem that Sheffield Plate was first used for buttons. I wonder if this is the industry actually being referred to - not this thread type. (And the vast amount of different types of buttons which are not cloth, thread or passementerie is a subject I have only touched the surface of). I have also never seen any tools which I would say were actually these 'looms' - though certain thread winders might work. I have emailed a few places, but haven't had any replies.

Perhaps this is simply being called a Yorkshire button because the person who originally worked out how to make it used a button on a garment in a museum in Yorkshire as a guide. This is what happens with the chevron buttons I made for Ninya Mikhaila / Perth Museum & Art Gallery -

Most of my costumier friends and people in re-enactment tend to refer to these as 'Perth Buttons', simply because the original suit is in Parth Museum. If someone else was teaching how to make these, would they also refer to them as Perth Buttons? It's possible.

It is a real mystery, but if anyone has any information on a passementerie-specific button industry inYorkshire I'd love to know.

Buttons, timelines and screen tests....

2011-08-11T10:30:00.000+01:00

It really has been all about buttons again recently - well almost (I have worked on some weaving and braids, but that'll be another post!). It is wedding season, and quite a few dressmakers want pretty buttons for wedding dresses - I've done about 40 different types already in the last week. That's the great thing about being able to make passementerie buttons - they can be made to compliment an outfit so easily, be it something modern or historically accurate.

The buttons shown here are a Victorian style -more commonly worked on a flatter mould as a sample for a client. (These more complicated buttons and many more will be on a future DVD).

An embroiderer who's work I really admire, Bjarne Drews, has been working buttons from my Making More Buttons DVD and I think I have another convert to the world of button-making! Of course, it is quite easy to convert those who are already interested in historical clothing - now we just have to get everyone else interested too! ...see below...

My apologies to not being able to get the tablet weaving cards into the shop yet - Camera and lighting has not been going well this week, and there's not much point having something in the shop that you can't see a picture of. Today should be the day, I've got a proper photography area set up now.

What is now in the shop however, are two research papers which are available as a free download - Passementerie Buttons Timeline and Passementerie Button Types. Both really are works-in-progress, but hopefully the information in them will help others who are looking to find the right general type of button for a period. One day I'd love to be able to include sizing information, but unfortunately that's not likely to happen! If you know of unusual buttons - especially those which might change the timeline, do please let me know!

And the third part of the title of this post - screentests....

Last week I had a screen test for the Create & Craft Channel. It seems I did ok - it's pencilled in now for me to be on air live in September to show the Making Buttons DVD, along with some great kits. I am however, irritate that my hands were shaking. Not really good when you are demo-ing a button being made! It seems that I have a choice - either the voice shakes (as it always does when I begin talks and papers) or the hands shake. Thing I am going to have to practice that one!

Still, considering it was the hottest day of the summer, I think I did ok, and I did enjoy the experience! So, when things are confirmed, I'll be sure to let you know, you can all send me good vibes on the day (and tune in!)

Tablet weaving tips

2011-07-19T17:09:00.000+01:00

It's proving to be a really hectic week for me (and next week will be even more so as it is time for paperwork..) but I decided that I would keep up the posts as promised.

One of the suggestions I was given was to give advice about tablet weaving. In itself, tablet weaving is actually quite simple. However, I suspect that most beginners do exactly what I did initially - want to try something really complicated, before I understood the basic principles. And deciding to use lovely, fine, 'authentic' thread. Both are recipes for disaster from a beginner's point of view!

The first is thread.
Don't try weaving with wool!
Wool is stretchy. The warp threads often break as the tension builds beyond the tablets.
Wool is fuzzy. The fuzz tangles and catches and makes finding the shed difficult
And, both of these factors contribute to threads breaking due to rubbing against the holes of the tablets.

Of course wool was used historically! But it is a tricky thread to tablet weave with when you are a beginner. So don't try. You'll end up frustrated and probably quit.

Use a simple perle (perl) cotton. Size 5 is really good, but you can use a thinner one. It may not be 'authentic', but it is great to learn with. Make yourself a bookmark or something - wait to make that wonderful girdle or trimming!

Weave with one colour to start out with. Then weave with two. Don't try to follow a fancy pattern - just play. Learn what happens when you turn the tablets is different ways. Learn the terminology. The biggest single problem with following any pattern tends to be the author's notation. If you assume the set up is based on one type of pattern and don't read what the author has written, your design can end up on the underside, or worse still, jagged and weird looking. There's no set pattern notation in TW in the way there is for knitting or crochet!

In other words... take baby steps!

And enjoy it!

Using passementerie buttons & other things...

2011-07-12T10:59:00.000+01:00

Still keeping busy here. Last week my monitor died, which has meant I have currently got the old one back. Ok, but it is quite a dark monitor, and I was just getting my images sorted out properly with the new one! Seems I am always starting a post with a moan about computers lately, doesn't it? (At least I am slowly getting used to the keyboard..) But, it's a month of bookwork, so I would have preferred to have the old computer and the new both working at the same time...

I am currently working on a brocaded tablet weave - a belt, which I think many of you saw on my facebook page last week. It is getting close to completion now. After that, another guitar strap - and this one, if it works will be very unusual in design. Then I had quite a brainstorm about another way of tablet weaving, which if it works will be super unusual. So, two totally non historical projects going into the 'to do' book. (I could do with far more hours in the day).

Speaking of which, I will FINALLY have the tablet weaving starter kits back in my shop this week. (Should have it all sorted by the end of the week).

I had to break off a little last week to work on some extra samples of passementerie buttons in use. I have made over some jackets , you know - done the more usual things with buttons, and then I made some samples using them in other ways - as card embellishments for instance, jewellery, and other types of decoration. Which is the perfect excuse to make a handbag and purse -

I love making bags for myself, so any excuse is good!

I keep telling myself that I should blog more often, but I do struggle with what to say. I think I will start paying closer attention to what other bloggers do on a regular basis, and see if I can pick up any pointers.

Oh, and yesterday I learn the exciting translation of a passementerie term - limace de spiral, a technique used for decorating tassels, means 'spiral slug'- I love it! (Thanks Jane!)

Quiet perhaps, but still here

2011-06-23T10:30:00.000+01:00

I know, terrible isn't it? I really should update more often. My biggest excuse? New keyboard. Still can't abide it, the keys don't feel right and I keep hitting the wrong one. I am sure I will get used to it eventually....

It has been a very busy few weeks for me actually. I have finished a set of frogs and matching cords, a plain tablet weave, a guitar strap in double faced weave, some artwork, been busy putting together some kits for the shop (going live shortly!) Girdle tassles, starting another brocaded band, working on the next dvd, writing an article and designing and quoting other things. And in between all of that I have even managed to find some time for mail art and even got out the sewing machine!

One of the things I recently worked on which has nothing to do with textiles but does have to do with drawing is this video - Beautiful Light.

I will also be updating my Facebook gallery next week. So, if you have 'liked' the page, please bear with me if there are alot of status reports. I will try not to re-arrange things too much, and apologise in advance! Part of this will of course mean more updates here, as I will hopefully have some quite nice photos of some of the items I have been working on.

Exciting news

2011-05-17T11:11:00.000+01:00

I'm really thrilled to be able to finally talk about this. It's only been going on for a few years! Back in 2008, at the International Medieval Congress, I was asked if I would like to contribute to an encyclopedia of medieval textile terms. Because the paper I presented at the time was about passementerie, I was asked to contribute under that heading. Time passed, I gave a little paragraph, (there was a very strict word count involved) and then time passed again. And then I was asked to expand the piece, so I did, happily - passementerie is a pretty big subject actually, even when some individual items will be having their own entry. And then time passed again.

Well, last week, the contributors list was distributed, (and I am so thrilled to be included with these scholars) and so I figure now's as good a time as any to let everyone know!

To quote from the official website-

The single volume Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450 is a unique work that intends to bring together the latest research from across the range of disciplines which contribute to our knowledge of medieval dress and textiles.

Yay! And I am the contributing author for the passementerie entry.

And yes, I am as pleased as punch!

Seriously, this look as though it will a great book for so many of you who follow this blog. Entries include just about everything you could think of. And hopefully lots of libraries will have it - it's a pricey one .....

Frogs - in the best company

2011-05-02T14:56:00.000+01:00

I was so pleased to see Mrs Middleton's outfit at The Wedding - the decorative frogging was beautiful - especially the little ones on the sleeves.

It is easy to forget that frogging needn't always be about actually fastening a garment - far from it! Decorative frogs can be so effective, adding that extra 'something'.

These examples are samples I have just sent out for a client to choose a style. All of these are made using a gimp thread - the different cords have all been hand-spun using the gimp, while the buttons utilise the gimp in different ways.

It's interesting how different look can be achieved with the same basic materials. And of course, these are spun-cords. If they had been braided or knotted or used in other different ways then the frogs would look completly different again.

The colours too make such a difference. These are bold because of the black and gold, yet those on the mother of the bride's outfit were subtle and understated.

And the BEST bit? The papers are currently actually using the words passementerie and braiding to describe it!

Deaths Head buttons - samples, different thread types

2011-05-01T11:20:00.001+01:00

Sorry! I did get a little sidetracked by a certain wedding... ;-)

Here is the promised picture. Each of these Death's head leek buttons were worked over a flat disc mould, 20mm dia.

1. 60/2 spun silk thread
2. 720 denier filament silk thread (tight twist)
3. 5/2 Perl cotton
4. 6-strand embroidery cotton
5. Viscose gimp thread (bourdon cord)
6. 2000 denier filament silk knitting thread (Como)
7. Fine worsted wool
8. #40 Crochet cotton
9. 1200 deneir filament silk thread (loose twist)
10. Knitting wool

As you can see, different threads give quite different effects using the same basic technique. The thick threads, such as the gimp and the thick knitting wool do need extra holding stitches at the reverse, and make quite a bulky button. Which is fine, but does illustrate the point that when making and passementerie buttons, the buttonhole should be worked after the button, to ensure that there's enough room for the button!

You should also try to think ahead as to the use of a button - the thicker threads have a tendancy to move on the face of the button when going through a buttonhole, and so could look untidy. These types of threads are often better used when the button is purely decorative.

I have not included a central holding cross stitch on any of these buttons, but this is one technique that can help to ensure that the threads of the finer types stay in place when the button is in use.

If you'd like to learn how to make the Death's Head leek button, you'll find the techniques on my Making Buttons dvd.

Getting ready for the Wedding?

2011-04-28T12:31:00.000+01:00

Yes, I have to admit I am looking forward to it. After all, where else can I see some of the finest examples ever of passementerie, goldwork and embroidery than a British Royal event? Forget the guest list - I love watching what's decorating the coaches and the regalia of the military!

And so, that's what I'll be doing tomorrow morning. And then a street party after. And I'll be wearing at least one Union Jack leek button! So let's hope the sun continues to shine.

So, it's been an odd week here in the UK - last weekend a four-day break, and this weekend will be too (yes, we have a public holiday in honour of the wedding, not bad...)so really, not alot has gotten done. I have tried to take some time off to do the things around the house that need doing (boring I know, but the bathroom looks fresh with a new paint job!) but I have still been busy with buttons and DVDs

I'll be posting up an image later with a selection of leek buttons done with different thread types but the same size mould - it is quite interesting how different everything looks. I want it to be a post on it's own, to be able to easily link to it later.

Thanks to everyone for the great feedback on the DVDs so far. Next week I'll start filming number 3, which is planned to be a single disc this time. But I'll let you keep guessing as to the subject...

Making Buttons and Making More Buttons

2011-04-05T10:12:00.000+01:00

I can now announce the exciting news I have been hinting at - the release of my first two instructional dvds!

Making Buttons and Making More Buttons show you how to make a really large selection of both tradional and modern buttons using passementerie techniques. Each title is a two-disc set and includes sections on materials and finishing as well.

The filming is at eye level - so you see what you would see if you were working the buttons yourself. You don't have to try to figure it out from a different angle. I give away alot of the little techniques I've developed over the years, as well as some of my unique designs!

The titles are menu-driven, and included an illustrated button chart so that you can choose which film you want to watch - and so which button you want to learn (or re-learn).

And you don't just have to want to learn these buttons for re-enactment or costume - these buttons look great on modern clothes and for all sorts of other embellishments.

This is only the start - there are other titles in the pipeline to ultimately have a whole series of how to dvds - The Making Passementerie series

Both DVDs are avalable in my shop - AND in both PAL and NTSC versions

Another few projects finished

2011-03-31T15:43:00.000+01:00

Another busy week! Just in case you haven't noticed, my new web site -www.gina-b.co.uk - has gone live this week. I am sure that I will find things that I've missed or want to tweak, but the basics are there.

Now, to just keep adding exciting things to the shop! And there are some very exciting developments in the pipeline right now. Can't wait to share, but I have to. Don't want to jinx anything quite yet....

I have also finished two brocading projects - the first was actually finished quite a while back, but as both are going to the same customer I didn't really consider the work completed until the very complicated one was done.

Both are silk tablet woven ground weave, with gilt plate brocade. The brocade does not run the whole length of the bands - only the area which shows when a veil is worn. I'm very pleased with how they turned out. This weekend, its back to buttons, tassels and some trials for frogging, so plenty to keep me busy!

thread types for tablet weaving

2011-03-15T10:48:00.002Z

I've recently been asked about the types of thread that I use for tablet weaving. To be honest, like anything, much depends upon just how 'authentic' the finished weave is meant to be, and how much money is to be spent on the materials.

If I am teaching, I tend to use a #5 perl cotton. It has a little bit of a sheen, and in many ways resembles a spun silk. It is a medium weight, so the weaving moves along at a nice pace, and you don't need too many tablets for a nice width. Because of that, it can also be unwoven fairly easily if a mistake is made, and is generally a good all-rounder. And it's great for belts, that sort of thing.

Finer cottons are lovely too. Not 'authentic' * Choose something with a good twist and the pattern will be crisp and when you weave. Crochet cottons are really quite lovely, and really do lend themselves to some fine weaving at reasonable prices.

Wools. Well, the general consensus is to stay away from wool threads until you are experienced. Which is a good tip - particularly if you are trying to achieve a fantastic Viking or Anglo-Saxon weave. They don't look any good in a fat knitting wool, but a fine worsted wool will snag, fluff up and probably snap at least once while you weave. I often see quite thick wooly braid for sale, made with rather thick knitting wools. Yes, it can be pretty quick to weave these, which of course means the price can be really reasonable when you want to trim a tunic, but, they are often just that bit too thick and can unbalance the way the tunic hangs. So, you do need to consider this. There is no point buying a lovely fine woolen fabric only to sew a thick braid to the hem. Of course, a thick braid in a modern context can be quite spectacular.

Silk. There are two types of silk out there, and many people confuse them. There is spun silk, and filament silk. And if you are going for 'authentic', you really have to choose filament.

Spun silk is what is generally more easily available today. It is made from the broken or damaged cocoons - these short fibres are spun together in the same was as wool is spun. Because the short fibres are used, spun silk often has a fluffier appearance than filament, and always has less sheen. Histrically, spun silk does seem to have existed - English medieval silkwomen complained at the poor quality silk they were getting from the Italian merchants - but it does not seem to have been happily used by them. Most of what survives has been made using filament silk, with the odd exception - weft threads sometimes appear to be spun, as do the odd tassel, fringe or braid.

However, with modern machinery, there are some nice spun silks out there, and I know lots of tablet weavers who use 60/2 spun silk for most of their work. Something with a tight twist will give a crisper design. And of course - it is great for modern applications as well.

Filament silk is the continuous length of thread as it is unwound from the cocoon. As such it is strong, very shiny, and quite unlike spun silk. It can be loosely twisted (a floss) or tightly twisted. Weaving with (and generally working with) a filament silk is, for me, a real joy, even though the fineness of filament silk can mean a really time-consuming project. I use both floss and tightly spun silks in tablet weaving, tightly spun threads give a denser, sharper appearance, whereas the floss silks, used in multiple plys, can give a very fluid, fabric-like weave.

And you know, sometimes experiementing with modern / unusual threads can be quite fun and give great results. It is easy to get caught up in the whole historic thing and forget to be a little creative sometimes.

*(a word that I sometimes really dislike. More on that another time.)

Hopefully that's a help to some of you! As for me, still brocading. The second piece is much more time-consuming than the first was! But pretty. The website re-build is moving along very well, and I have some very exciting things in the pipeline, it's about all I can do to not blab!

Buttons and weaving

2011-02-17T10:07:00.003Z

It's been a while since I posted, yet the time seems to have flown by. January's paperwork pile and tax deadlines were all met and then the brain had some proper down time. Feb is always a little bit of a flurry with birthdays, anniversaries and other such things that need my attention, but I am managing some very serious work in between.

The brocaded tablet weaving is going very well (touch wood!) I did try to get some photos at the weekend, but gold plate and flash photography just doesn't mix well. I have finally ordered (and now received) a little mini studio - lights, table-top 'box' and mini tripod (though that's really too lightweight for my camera, I'll stick to the big tripod!). So, although the loom won't fit inside, it is perfect for all of the little finished items. In theory, I shall have alot better images to throw at you all in the coming months, I just need to practise...

In between, I have had some smaller custom work to break up the very intense work that is brocading, including laces and shirt tassels and some cufflinks, and doing an awful lot of quoting. You can see some photos here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/ginabsilkwork/ - my new flickr account. I have also signed up for twitter - @GinaBsilkwork - as I am actually intending to spend less time in front of the computer and more time creating this year.

I am starting on a very big, at-the-moment-top-secret project. What I can say is that it involves buttons. Lots of buttons. I am actually dreaming buttons now, and its only a couple of weeks in...

I hope that the weather is starting to improve for everyone. It is still cold here, but at least the snowdrops have flowered. It may not feel like it, but spring is on the way....

Another year....

2011-01-21T09:45:00.004Z

Happy new year everyone! It has been some time since I updated, so I do apologise. I hope that the bad weather before the holidays here in the UK didn't adversely effect too many of you. (Or that the horrible conditions elsewhere now aren't!) We were snowed in for quite some time, and many holiday get-togethers were cancelled in the end. But it was pretty!

So, on to the New Year. I am not going to make a list of what I want to achieve, or resolutions, or anything of the sort, as many do on their blogs. Last year's health spanner-in-the-works meant that quite a few things I had set out to do, did not get done. So instead, I am keeping realistic at the moment, pacing myself and trying to ensure that I enjoy what I am doing.

I have just recently started the first piece of weaving since my op. It is slow going, my abdomen isn't quite as comfortable as it could be while sat at the loom, and trust me to get in with something complicated right off the bat - some Anglo-Saxon brocade! I think I may be a little insane. But, it is pretty, and working well.

Many thanks as well to those of you who have visited my Etsy shop. I hope to have my own shop up and running in a couple of months, but in the meantime, do remember you can contact me for any made-to-order items which aren't listed on Etsy.

Knitting

2010-11-15T14:32:00.003Z

OMG! I taught myself how to kit!

(I know of certain people who will be very pleased to hear that)

Now, this is a Big Achievement. Knitting has been one of those things that I've never managed. My father tried to teach me when I was little. My late mother-in-law, someone who could knit in her sleep and taught so many people, tried to teach me on at least three occasions. Every time I either struggled to hold the pins, got my tension so wrong that nothing could be knitted (let alone unraveled to start again!) and always just didn't "get it".

I kept all of my mother-in-law's pins and bits when she passed away - telling myself I would learn eventually, and then I'd regret it if I had gotten rid of them.

So I guess eventually is now! I have no idea what happened, I decided to give it another go. I wanted to do something, and have still got a bit too much of the cold in my head to do anything complicated or delicate. So I thought - knit.

Got out some pins, some wool, and of all of the books with instructions that I have I chose "The Bantam Step-by-Step Book of Needlecraft" - a book which belonged to my mom and I have asked for on numerous occasions over the last 25 or so years - she sent it to me (from the US) a month ago (which goes to show the power of persuasion!). Thank you again Mom - it really was worth me having it!!

And I knitted. First time. No frustration or confusion - didn't even drop the pins. Very Weird. And I sat there grinning like a Cheshire Cat. I made one of those short scarf / cowl things that needs to be buttoned. (I'll try to remember to photograph it after I put the buttons onto it - but no - I haven't done proper buttonholes yet!!) And I felt very proud of myself!

And my husband now wants a cable knit Aran sweater this time next year! hahaha

Craft Britannia Treasury

2010-11-12T18:16:00.003Z

I'm really pleased to say that I've been included in an Etsy treasury - do stop by, comment (to get us higher!) and of course have a shop!

There are some terrific UK based craftspeople included here.

open-craftbritannia

My Union Jack cufflinks have been included - please remember that most of my cufflinks can be made-to-order in other colours.

Ha! Got the pictures working

2010-11-12T10:54:00.003Z

I've no idea if anyone else has had the same problem, but I haven't been able to add pictures to my blog since the editor changed - they've been uploading merrily to Picassa, but not linking to the blog, the editor just kept crashing. So, I finally figured out that I can go back (in settings) to the old editor, and now, pictures again! Phew!

So, above is just one of the pairs of cufflinks I've been creating for my Etsy shop. I was always pleased with this button design when I first figured it out, and they do work well as cufflinks!

I am a bit obsessed with cufflinks. I suppose it is because a cufflink really is 'just' button, and gives a good reason for all of the special hand-worked buttons to be used in modern dress.

Thanks to those of you checking in about my flu - It's still got a bit of a hold on me, let's face it, my immune system is low after two ops in quick succession, but it can't go on forever, can it?! Well, let's hope not!

November, grumble, grumble

2010-11-10T10:25:00.000Z

Well, I've been knocked for six with a bad bout of flu, finally starting to get a little bit back to normal but still nowhere near 100%. Oh well. I guess the immune system is a bit out of wack still!

But, I have finished an order for laces, which is now off to have aiglets made and fitted and am about to start on a set of buttons. I am also doing the planning on starting on quite an extensive project of Anglo- Saxon gold brocaded tablet weaving. The customer wants quite a variety of different braids, so I'm currently looking for supplies and so on. It will be interesting, as I haven't done any weaving since the op, so I'm still not sure how much I will be able to do at one sitting. Mind you, as brocading takes soo long, I don't suppose that will matter anyway!

Thanks to those of you who are stopping by my Etsy shop. Remember I am very happy to make to order - Christmas is coming! I have to say that I am enjoying using the authentic methods to make more modern items. I think it will be a relaxation device once the larger, "authentic" commissions kick-in. More will be added later this week. As a part of this I have been included in an Etsy Team- "Craftbritannia" - working to help promote each other's shops. We're doing a promo on Friday/Saturday, so watch this space!

Small pleasures...

2010-10-27T16:28:00.000+01:00

I've been very busy updating my Etsy shop with various little items I've been working on over my recovery period. It turns out I am learning quite a bit about photography too - for instance, I am still not very good at it! But, at least I am now getting a good picture every once in the while, and that can't all be down to good luck.

So, what have I been listing? Cufflinks, brooches, and a few head bands. I love working on the cufflinks and brooches - it is nice to think that passementerie buttons can still be used today - the only 'problem' is my husband keeps picking out cufflinks for himself! So, there are the more traditional designs - the Death's head for instance, but there are also variations, still created using traditional techniques.

For instance,

spider's web cufflinks - using the same knotting technique as I used for my 1596 buttons
A golden 'steampunk' brooch - using gold thread instead of the usual linen shirtlace
Sea-inspired cufflinks - using Dorset button techniques, both old and modern

Unfortunately, Blogger keeps crashing when I try to upload images. Hmph! So, here's the link to my Etsy Shop .

Remember, I can make to order, so if you want a different colour, just get in touch

Autumn's on it's way.

2010-10-19T11:40:00.000+01:00

Hello all and sorry about my lack of saying anything recently. I had set out with very Good Intentions, but somewhere along the line overdid it - it's very easy to think you're fine after major surgery and then the slightest thing puts you out. So, I really, really have to Slow Down. ( I am also still a bit in catch-up mode - back to the proper job full-time, and ending up feeling very tired at the end of a day still!)

The Richard III Society AGM went very well I think. Leicester is a nightmare to travel in, too many roadworks and one way systems, and goodness, I live in Leicestershire. It really is no wonder I never go into the city these days. It's far worse than it used to be. Even a portion of the Ricardians were late, as their coach was stuck going 'round and 'round. What a shame. Still, as always, it's particularly nice to show people who are especially interested in medieval history an area that they perhaps haven't even thought about.

Some of you may have noticed that I have opened an Etsy shop. I know that this can be a bit off-putting to those of you here in the UK as Etsy does have a real USA slant. However, you can at least now view the prices in pounds sterling when you are signed up! It is a good outlet for me for the time being, but I don't think it will be the long-term answer.

So, please do stop by and check what items I am including. I will be adding a range of items which can be used now - cufflinks, headbands, belts - that type of thing. Let's face it - those of you who something super-authentic usually know exactly what you want, and it is very rarely something I've already made and put into my shop ready-to-buy! ;)

However, those of you who like pretties and are looking for something unusual for the coming season, may just find something you like!

Getting sorted

2010-09-27T10:08:00.000+01:00

Thanks for your patience folks - the website is at least more-or-less functioning again, though there's alot left to do. At least the gallery's back up. I've also opened an Etsy shop, and expect to have it pretty well populated within the next couple of weeks. When that happens, I think I'll do a give-away - if so, it'll be announced here.

This weekend I'll be doing my first 'event' in absolutely ages - I'll be attending the Richard III Society Members' Day with Soper Lane, demonstrating and and answering questions. So this week will very much be a case of getting kit together - my linens are all washed, pressing this evening, lucky me! (Actually, white linen is one of the few things I enjoy ironing - it is never a wasted task) It will be interesting to get into medieval clothing again - I'm hoping everything still fits well....

Website down

2010-09-21T13:23:00.000+01:00

Sorry! The website is down for a while - the server had a a major problem on one section, which has affected quite a large section of my website, and there's lots to fix, so it's going to take a while.

In fact, there's such a lot to fix, I think I am going to take the opportunity to re-do the whole site!

In the meantime, if you do need to contact me you can do so on the following email address - ginabsilkworkATgooglemailDOTcom

And, if you have already, I am a little behind in my replies due to this.

I'm back... more or less!

2010-08-31T09:55:00.000+01:00

After a summer I do not want to repeat again, I am back. Well, slowly, but getting there. Thanks to everyone who sent well-wishes, it was really nice of you.

I can't say that I've been particularly creative while recovering, but I have practiced some netting and macrame fringe, and done a little bit of hand sewing and quilting for a fun quilt I'm working on (that will probably take me years to complete!).

While I've been laid up my husband re-decorated my work room, including getting a whole load of new furniture units in. I'm still trying to figure how he got everything up the stairs single-handed! There's still some sorting out to do (I must go through the books for instance and we still need to move a few bits around), but its lovely in there, and has quite inspired me to start trying to be creative again.

I'm still limited in what I can do, at the moment for instance I can't really weave, warping up is too long a process, but I have been working on some ideas for some unusual textile work - it'll be interesting to see if I can get the ideas out of my head...

So, the shop is now re-open, with some new items there, including some evening bags/reticules which were going to be put up prior to my hospital treatment.

Sale now on!

2010-06-03T16:20:00.000+01:00

I will be temporarily closing my shop (for 4-6 weeks) from June 11th due to hospital treatment. As a result, I have currently marked down most of my hand-worked items until that time, so do take advantage!

Quiet perhaps, but still here...

2010-05-06T13:12:00.000+01:00

It's been a busy few weeks in the day job - and will remain that way for some time. However, I've not been wasting my evenings!

I've been working on my latest article for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd, on how to make fabric trimmings for the late Victorian period. So, I have been pleating, gathering, and taking lots of step-by-step photos! Lots of very feminine frills!

The prototype of my new loom attachment is still undergoing a bit of work. We are currently trying out a couple of attachment ideas so that it can be used on most looms without any damage - Very Important. So, in a couple of weeks I do hope to at least have the first ready to test.

And I have a new loom in my collection now - a vintage bead weaving loom. Lovely thing, though it has had a teeny bit of woodworm in the past so I'll have to treat it before I use it. As you can see, it still has a part-worked piece - and these little beads are lovely. Almost a shame to take it apart to clean and get the loom working. But, another skill to learn!

Next week I'll be back in 'shop stock' mode - I currently have alot of nearly finished purses, laces and other little items to get ready to upload.

Necessity is the mother of all invention

2010-04-20T10:13:00.005+01:00

I am regularly asked if I can make a particular item - from a photo usually. Often, I can figure out what needs to be done, but sometimes I know that it is simply not 'do-able' using the sort of equipment available for someone who works from home.

This is especially the case with ribbons. So many very elaborate ribbons of the 18th, 19th and 20th century were created on mechanised ribbons looms - those with elaborate patterns used various types of drawloom set-ups, finally culminating in the Jaquard loom. The cost and size of a drawloom these days makes it quite impossible - particularly the size - besides the point that drawlooms which are available are for cloth, not ribbon. (yes the larger looms can be used for ribbon, but doesn't it seem silly to take up all that space to weave something a couple of centimetres wide!)

Most books/articles which deal with decorative ribbon weaving tend to discuss pattern warps or wefts, with a few discussing pick-up techniques. Counting and picking up individual warp threads is fine if you want to do non-repetitive designs such as lettering, but is terribly time-consuming when you want a pattern repeat - which after all, is what most historic ribbons involve. So I thought, why not use string heddles to bring up the decorative warp threads in a pre-determined order?

I did consider using my small table loom (designed for small pieces of cloth). However, without tracking down new reeds, etc, the placement of the warp threads is too far apart for ribbon weaving. So I decided to experiment with my small inkle loom.

So, step one. A complicated contraption of string heddles, sticky tape,cardboard and coffee stirring sticks! But it did work, and as I got into what I was actually doing, I'd say it was quicker than brocaded tablet weaving. But adjustments needed to be made - including having more selvedge warps in order to keep those neat and tidy. (My first ribbon - worsted wool - below, you can see what I mean about the selvedges)

The biggest 'problem' is that inkle looms/band looms do not have anything to support the groups of strings, which can mean that they tangle, or you raise the warp in the wrong order because they are difficult to 'find'. So, an adaptation was needed - but not something permanent which would render the inkle loom useless for 'regular' weaving.

Mark II. Still cardboard, tape and coffee stirring sticks - and a big bulldog clip to keep the holding frame attached to the top bar of the loom. Tidy groups of warps now. - (for anyone who saw the pics I originally posted, they've now been removed as I'm looking to get Mark III properly prototyped and protected. So my legal eagle friend advised me to remove them!)

So long as the heddle strings are as tight as possible, the warp threads do draw up quite well. Now to practice some more. And to find a better method of attaching the contraption to the top bar (a bulldog clip and tape is hardly professional!) so that I can get these put together as add-ons for anyone's inkle loom (I already know someone who should be able to make the components for me). It'll need testing on my large band loom (the top bar of which is a different size).

As for the weaving? Alot of practice still needed! I'll need to get quicker, but it should open up alot of possibilities for decorative ribbons and fringe. There are of course limitations, some designs won't be able to be worked simply because the space on an inkle/band loom will only allow for so many heddle groups, but experimenting will be fun - even if it's only creating a twill weave ribbon!

[Put clever title here]

2010-04-01T10:17:00.003+01:00

Ok, so that's the hardest bit about a blog, I can never think of a witty or clever title. Oh well.

I've been busy working on items of stock, as promised, for the new shop. Of course, never, it seems, what a particular person wants at a particular time, but that's ok (at least I can do those to order!). This weekend will be pretty busy, I have a length of bobbin lace to finish (pictured below) and my new weaving shuttles have arrived so the silk on the loom (for a grosgrain ribbon) can now be woven. And then it's on to some tablet weaving and braiding, as the shop is really missing those items. However, instead of decreasing, my list of 'want-to-do's' is actually getting longer. (And getting some big projects added to it all of the time). And then of course there's some good old fashioned sewing some spring-time clothes for me. (Mind you, the weather's so rubbish, I reckon I can get away with not doing that for a little while yet!) Aren't I glad it's a long weekend!

Happy Easter everyone - I hope you all enjoy your break.

I'm told it's spring...

2010-03-22T14:10:00.005Z

...but I'm not too sure! It's cold today! And my daffs still aren't in flower...

Since sorting out the website, I have been busy getting as many planned projects (and some unplanned-spur-of-the-moment-ideas) completed as I can. I have such a long list though, it's often hard to decide what to work on next, as I'm sure most of you who have lists of projects feel. What would you like to see? I've set up a discussion on my Facebook page - if you are on Facebook, go ahead and add something. If not, do comment here!

This week, it's been Georgian trims. At the top, a silk chenille fringe. At the moment I have only been able to find one source of pure silk chenille thread - and it's not 'right', so I have to twist four of these together to get something resembling Georgian chenille. (Cotton chenille - not problem, there's a huge range!) This trim was made using knotting - a very popular technique during the Georgian period. The trim is based on one on a gown in the V&A, but does not match it due to the chenille issue. I may well have to just give in and get cotton chenille, just so that I can try a close copy. (At least cotton isn't a true issue for the Georgian period in the way that it is for medieval)

The second is a fly fringe - the flies are made using knotting (in silk) whilst the fringe itself has been 'put together' using a bobbin lace technique. The gimp isn't silk - again, nearly impossible to find these days - I found one, once, in only one colour and a ridiculous price! Making it myself is an option of course, but we'll save that option for someone who really wants to pay for it ;)

Below is another knotted silk trim - the yellow silk is first knotted with lots of knots closely together, and then this is knotted into the second group of silk threads.

This is all primarily to get myself used to some techniques, but I am also planning on working on a stomacher or two - another nice item (like purses) which can show alot of different hand techniques. Though I have to say, my brain keeps wandering towards a full Georgian outfit with all of the correct trimmings, but I think that may have to wait! (I have promised to make my wonderful dog a new bed, so I really should finish that first I think)

Thanks to everyone who's signed up at the Facebook page - and those of you who have commented on the new website!

New website, shop and everything!

2010-03-03T12:11:00.002Z

After alot of work, my website has now been re-worked. There are new pages in the gallery, I have finally included some of the large projects that I worked on over the last year.

There is also a new and improved shop, which I hope to update on a regular basis for one-off items such as buttons, purses, and all other pretty little items! Of course, there are also the supplies and kits, which I hope to develop more later in the year.

So, if you haven't, do stop by! Gina-B Silkwork & Passementerie

I have also now set up a Facebook page, so, if you're on Facebook and want to check it out - please do!

Another project completed

2010-02-11T13:03:00.003Z

Another tablet weaving project completed - a very wide girdle woven with fine filament silk. This will ultimately be a girdle for a 15th century gown.

It's always difficult to weave wider pieces with very fine threads, as maintaining the tension across the piece is quite hard. I did say in my last post that this didn't want to be woven! Still, when it finally decided that it did want to exist, it actually went quite smoothly.

Besides everything else, I am currently working on a new shop. The old one has some things which really irritate me in the programming, so I decided that it is easier to re-install and start again, then to try to find the offending code in a zillion bits of program. So, hopefully, it will be up and running fairly soon and be better stocked! But I have to admit I'd rather be making than computing.

At least the sun is shining!

I don't like January...

2010-01-27T14:36:00.004Z

January isn't my favourite month, and this year's has been no exception - rotten cold, snowed in, ran out of gas right in the middle of being snowed in, op cancelled until whenever I'm next to the top of this list and of course tax returns...

Still, most of the stressful things are now out of the way, and it isn't all bad (had some great visits with friends). On the textile front, I've actually been very busy. Quite a lot of weaving and making laces, both of which I didn't photograph before sending to the clients, and a very wide tablet woven girdle in fine silk currently on the loom, amongst other things waiting to be started. For some reason that didn't want to be woven, but I have put my foot down and finally managed to get it to behave.

I had a new sewing machine for Christmas, and although I have barely had a chance to use it, I did manage a few days over the holiday. Below is my first attempt at proper free-machine embroidery. I love it! I suspect I will be doing alot more of that this year.

I have also started in earnest to organise everything I have with regards to sewing, weaving, passementerie, art and so on. It will take some time before everything is perfect - particularly as I do intend to eventually have my room completely kitted out with storage furniture from this company, Willowbrook. I have two of these units at the moment, and they are wonderful and I have planned out the whole rest of the room. (Besides the various craft storage units they do, they have bookcases and everything). So, you now all know what I will be saving my pennies for this year!

Before the holidays I actually took time out and made some gifts. And then lost all of the pictures I took except for the one below - a moleskin journal cover in silk with padded silk applique and silk braids and tassels. This was a secret santa gift, and the person (whom I've never met) likes pumpkins....

Happy new year everyone!

Button cufflinks

2009-12-11T09:06:00.004Z

It's that time of year again! I am trying to be more organised this year, but still failing. Ah well, still have a couple of weeks!

The picture is of some gold thread leek button cufflinks I've made as a gift. (Don't worry - he doesn't read my blog!) I was pleased at how they turned out - so much so that I think I am going to start wearing cufflinks myself - I reckon this would be a good way to show off some of my buttons. (Now just to make some blouses for cufflinks). Because working the leeks gives a raised area on the back - perfect for buttons as its a ready made shank, this doesn't work when you want to mount it to a flat cufflink blank. So instead, the threads had to be laid over both the mold and the cufflink. Rather time-consuming, but worth it in the end.

Happy Button Day!

2009-11-16T09:18:00.003Z

It's Button Day!

As promised, my Deaths' Head button kits are finished and can be found in my shop, so my Campaign for Leek Buttons is now a little further along. I am also currently experimenting with washable thread buttons. Haven't quite got it right, but am working on it!

Don't want to make thread buttons? Why not dig out your old button box/tin/jar, and see if you have anything interesting that you can add to a coat to brighten it up (I saw a coat last week that was being sold with every button different, shame they were cheap tinny horrid things, sewn on very badly!).

Suffering for my art...

2009-11-13T14:07:00.005Z

For the first time in many months I've been doing quite alot of fingerloop braids. All with fine silk and three of them nearly 2 meters long (thanks to my hubby for helping!). I enjoy doing it; I can get a good rythm going, but as I haven't done them in such a long time I am now suffering!
(horrid picture follows)

Now, I have to wait until these blisters heal a bit before I touch any fine silk threads, or everything just ends up a mess. I think I will have to discipline myself to do a few braids every month whether I need them or not, just to ensure the callouses stay intact!

The up side is that fingerloop braiding is excellent exercise for the upper arms though - honestly! And at my age, that wouldn't be a bad thing ;) ... and so much more enjoyable than a regular exercise regime methinks!

The Leek button kits are nearly ready, so roll on Button Day!

Writing, writing

2009-11-06T15:15:00.005Z

I've just finished my latest article for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd: the Costume Maker's Companion, "Embellinshing with Ribbons: Bows, Rosettes and Cockades". This should be published in the December issue. It has step-by-step photos so that you can produce some of these yourself, and I'm hoping that all of my instructions are easy to understand!

Added to that, The Braid Society's Journal 'Strands' has been published this month, with my article about the Luton Braid recreation that I did last year.

Did anyone see Garrow's Law on the BBC? Very interesting, but not enough Leek Buttons, again! I really can't figure it out - the best selling button type of the 18th century, yet never (or very rarely) used in costume drama.... so, I shall shortly be increasing my campaign by making up kits with full instructions, button molds, thread and wax. The more people who can make them, the more chance we'll eventually see them on TV! I hope to have everything finalised in time for 'Button Day' on Nov. 16th. Yes, there is a Button Day. No-one can seem to tell me the origins, and I'm fairly certain its an American thing (probably some advertising campaign originally), but I reckon I'll have to celebrate it!

More buttons

2009-10-27T12:43:00.005Z

It's been a pretty hectic month all in all, much of which has been spent working away on something that ended up being rather tedious. And of course bookwork, though the actual stress for that has been aliviated, thanks to the postal strike. I will just have to submit my tax returns online this year, as I really don't want to risk getting fined for the return not arriving in time. I somehow doubt I could claim it back from the PO... my energy levels are improving a bit, though not quite, which is irritating when my brain can think of a million things that must be done, or that I want to do!

I have had a productive button making time though!

These buttons are a first attempt at reproducing some Victorian buttons, the images of which were sent to me by a friend. I love the swirly design, and they worked very well as decoration for the jacket they are on.

These little buttons are for a polonaise which Isabella of Prior Attire is making - the polonaise looks lovely so far, and the silk fabric is yummy.

And this is the shoulder knot in place, with the wonderful uniform coat by Ninya Mikhaila. Don't you just love that yellow!

I've also finished one article on medieval passementerie, more of when I know if it has actually been accepted for the publication it's intended for! I suspect I won't know until next year, as it's not due for publication until 2012.

I'm finishing off a new masterclass for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd: the costume maker's companion, on ribbons & bows, for the December issue. I have a zillion photos of step-by-step processes, lets hope it all comes together well!

And advance notice of a book already on Amazon - though not available until July next year!
Sew Eco by Ruth Singer - with illustrations by me!

I have also been sorting. And sorting. And even more sorting. Goodness I have alot of silk and alot of stuff to make tassels with (but never the colour I want/need). I have ordered some wonderful storage units (I want quite a few more, but that will have to wait, the 'dream' work room is rather expensive, lol!)

Decorating occupational clothing

2009-10-05T11:56:00.003+01:00

Very busy last week making items for occupational clothing - both modern and historial.

Modern - lots and lots of Death's Head leek buttons for two frock coats and matching waistcoats. As they are for a Reverend, and so therefore black, I'm afraid there wasn't much point photographing them! But, I am hoping to get photos of the finished frock coat so that will be a very nice addition to the gallery.

Historical - a shoulder tassel for a 1760 dragoon uniform. The costumier (Ninya Mikhaila) had a drawing, and references to other types (officer's in gold bullion and silk, with very intricate work on the tassel heads!), but nothing for the actual uniform in question, so this is what we came up with -

The weave of the ribbon isn't quite the same as the weave on the officer's ribbon, as there just wasn't time to master it on the band loom (the original would have been machine woven by this period, allowing for far more variation in the weave quickly). Had there been time, I probably would have used a pick-up technique. And, although the photo appears to have two different colours of blue, it hasn't! The satin wrap on the tassel just reflects the flash a bit differently.

And, should have worked over the weekend, but decided instead to make a dress and jacket. Nearly finished, and thoroughly enjoyed doing some traditional sewing for a change!

Weaving tablets now for sale!

2009-09-29T15:17:00.004+01:00

As part of getting ready to organise more workshops next year, I have sourced someone who can make weaving tablets for me. These are now available in my shop.

There are four different types of tablets - all available in packs of ten. All are oak, and the holes are made by burning which results in a smoother hole than drilling.

There are square tablets with 5 holes - the standard one in each corner plus a centre hole. These tablets also come with a 'Beginning Tablet Weaving' sheet to help get you started.

I have also produced a square tablet with 9 holes. Nine I hear you ask - well, the tablets found in the Oseberg Ship burial have quite a variety of hole placements (though it appears that the tablets were still only traditionally threaded). My 9 holed tablets combine the different hole placements in one tablet (and have an additional centre hole), so the advanced weaver could really get adventurous with these!

I also have 3-holed triangular tablets, for those of you who wish to try Roman weaves, and 7-holed hexagon tablets - 6 side holes and a centre hole.

I'm still here... just...

2009-09-23T09:53:00.004+01:00

What can I say? August and Sept have not been particularly good months as I've not been very well. Rather put a damper on some of my summer plans. But, I am slowly catching up, and even have some exciting things in the pipeline. I managed to find someone who can make my button moulds, just about any size/shape I want, and who will probably be able to make tassel moulds too. (I will also be experimenting with washable leek buttons!!!) I am still weaving and making - just finished a very large order of leek buttons for a clerical robe - and am trying to do some dressmaking as I have some gorgeous fabric crying out to be made into something I can wear, not just look at.

Very soon I will have my shop back up and running (should everything go to plan) and will be including materials - such as wooden tablets and kits - as well as finished items.

I will update with pics soon, but in the meantime, do you remember the modern buttons I made for my friend Ruth? She's posted up the stunning finished jacket with very good detail photos - do have a look. It's really nice to see traditional items being used in a modern context.

Pretty things!

2009-08-14T12:32:00.002+01:00

The very large order of brocade that I did recently has now all been added to the various items of clothing it was intended for. It was decided at the last minute that a very posh girdle was also required - as the was enough of the burgundy remaining to do this, a portion has now been made up into this rather lovely girdle!

The beautiful, jewelled buckle and strap-end was created by Nicky Wade - who's wonderful jewellery you can see here - http://www.gemmeus.com/ These are silver, gold plated with precious gems on both sides. She also put together the girdle as a whole, including riveting the plaques which were provided by the client.

The ribbon has been stiffened and backed with silk (beautifully done by Bess Chilver!). Because this was woven as garment trim, it was a little too fine for the weight of the plaques being provided. (Had it been woven specifically, I would have probably woven with a fifth thread through the centre - something which can be seen on historical examples). By adding a stiffening, this can now be handled more often without risk, and the backing of course stops any catching of the rivets.

All of these lovely things are part of the new exhibition/attraction (I don't really like calling it an attraction, as everything has been meticulously researched) at Dover Castle.

Other than that, I am still super busy in the day job (always am this time of year) and seem to have alot of paperwork to catch up on. Getting there, slowly!

Something old, something new...

2009-07-22T13:26:00.003+01:00

One set of frogging for a bridal coat! I very nearly had it - something old - antique gold thread and antique button moulds, something new - the silk (and the frogging itself), and something blue - the blue silk which has been mingled with grey to achieve a match for the coat. But, I just couldn't think of a suitable borrowed I'm afraid!

I forgot to say that I recently received my copy of The King's Servants by Caroline Johnson. A lovely book - full colour, beautiful illustrations and really nice paper - and though I've only had time to skim through it, it looks to be wonderfully researched. I did some laces for Caroline some time back and have to say I am quite thrilled that she's mentioned me! items like laces and buttons are usually just included in the photo and never mentioned.

So, for me a bit of a breather now. Time to get stuff organised (a very serious issue, I've nearly forgotten what silk I have!) and get back to writing and research for a little bit. And hopefully, if this rain ever eases up, visit some good events....

Call this summer?!

2009-07-14T15:12:00.004+01:00

Hmmph! I seem to recall that when we had all that snow they swore we were going to have a fantastic summer. Three days without storms is hardly that! Still, at least I've had lots do to and the garden hasn't dried out...

Some more weaving finished, again, trim for costume. Both are silk tablet weaves. The wavy one doesn't show the extra touch - when the light hits it changes slightly again. I am very pleased with it!

I'm currently working on a set of silk and antique gold thread frogging for a wedding coat. So far, all is turning out really well too, they need to be finished this week so that, along with the regular job (which is always busy at this time of year) is ensuring that I remain occupied. And, as if that wasn't enough, I have decided to get involved with ATCs (Artist Trading Cards). I've wanted to have a go for a few years, and it is a bit addictive. It's very nice to be able to be a bit frivolous while being creative, I take my silkwork too seriously sometimes! A nice way to relax but still feel productive.

I've recently had a few requests to start up courses again, as I haven't done any for quite some time. I am seriously considering trying to find a suitable venue for some next year. But, if I do, what to do? Everyone who has asked seems to want to know something different... I am also considering trying to sort out some sort of web-based instruction. I am currently working on a book with as many passementerie techniques as I can possibly include, it may well be that some of this would be good material for simple courses. But, as always, the problem with the internet is one of copyright. How much do I want to send electronically for others to be able to pass on? hmm...

Oh, and the lathe is beginning to look like a no-go. I managed to talk him into it, but we just can't find a place to put the dang thing where the mess wouldn't interfere!

A little bit more of the list completed...

2009-06-19T16:04:00.004+01:00

Another busy week! Below is what turned out to be a very nice and unusual project, making a new cord and trimmings for this Bavarian pipe. The client decided that the red would be nicer than the original, which appeared to be green, though it was so faded that it would have been hard to tell the original shade anyway. I agree, and think the red tones have brought out the wood grain very well. The tassels were the most difficult - sourcing suitable bristles to make it from. The original actually used a strip of bristles still on the skin, which of course meant that it didn't need anything extra to hold the bristles in place. In the end I did have to resort to using some glue!

And below, 16m of gold & silver woven braid. I can't believe the damage to my cloth beam on my loom caused by the threads digging into the wood, especially as it's hard wood. The depression is probably about 5mm! I'll need to sand it down or something before I get on with the next bit of weaving, and in future for all work with metallic threads, I will be using a sheath of some sort (still to be devised!) to protect the loom! (Or perhaps just have a loom dedicated to metal thread work? that's a thought) Guess that's what I get for using such high quality metal threads - a synthetic wouldn't have caused this type of damage.

I am very close to persuading my husband to get a small lathe. I am tired of trying to find the right tassel molds for a job. And, despite the fact I wouldn't mind having a go at turning my own, I'd really rather he'd make the molds, so that I can get on with making the tassels!

Brocade and band weaving musings

2009-06-12T09:20:00.008+01:00

Thank you to everyone who commented or sent messages about Togo, they were very appreciated.

The weekend before, I completed the very large order of tablet weaves. 9m of burgundy with gilt brocaded motifs, 8 meters of olive green with gilt brocaded motifs and 2 m of a threaded-in design.

Having worked so much brocade recently I've picked up a few things along the way. The first is that a good netting needle is a fantastic shuttle for the brocade threads. I am lucky enough to have some Victorian steel netting needles, they hold the threads in place very well and are thin enough to pass under the tie-down threads easily. As netting needles have been found in a medieval context, I wonder if weavers of the past also used these?

The other thing that I've been contemplating is the finishing of narrow wares. I don't mean how the ends of the weave are treated - this depends on the ultimate end purpose. (For instance, these are all garment trims, so no special treatment is needed for the ends). I mean the finishing of the weave itself.

Cloth weaving always uses some kind of finishing technique - if only washing to ensure the threads 'close up' and the weave is strengthened. It's not something that is normally considered when weaving narrow wares. Yet, when an item is found in the ground, the weave very often is compacted - basically a condition put down to damage and age. But what if the bands were treated in a particular way after they were were woven as part of the initial process?

This first came to me with the plate brocading I did earlier in the year. The pattern, like so many, is the result of finds of gold plate in graves which have the impression where the threads lie over the gold. Yet, many (especially from the Anglo-Saxon period) are assumed to have been woven with wool threads. Wool isn't as 'stiff' as silk or linen, and even with pure gold (which is very soft) I wonder if the impressions would have been so clear without further help. Likewise, the turn of the brocade weft at the back always seems quite flat. So, for my brocades, I used a rolling pin to flatten the letal after the weave was completed. This changed the overall appearance of the band very subtly, and, I thought, very nicely.

So should bands of other materials be finished in the same way as cloth? Should wools for instance be washed, so that the threads shrink somewhat? Or silks? This has taken me on a whole new tangent for trials, when all of the orders are completed!

I still have about 5m left to weave of a gold and silver band (like the one I'm using in my profile pic at the moment), for a total order of 16m, so that's on the loom now. I also have a really interesting bit of passementerie to complete, pipe decoration. It's taken me quite a while to find a the right materials for the project but I am finally happy with what I've bought and am looking forward to this as it's a very different sort of project. In between I've made some linen and wool laces, and then have another 5 metres of tablet weave to complete. It's nice to have things which must be completed when I'd probably otherwise like to sit around feeling blah.

Togo Barrett 1995-2009

2009-06-03T16:34:00.003+01:00

Our darling Togo died in the early hours of Tuesday morning. It was, in the end, quite a shock, as he'd had a great day on Sunday, playing and even smiling despite his still slightly upset stomach (some new tablets from the vet were working and settling his stomach) and eating very well (he was particularly enjoying the fillet of white fish that the vet recommended!). Monday started well, but he seemed to have less energy as the day progressed. But he was still eating well, just seemed tired (his tummy meant he wasn't getting into a really deep sleep very often). He got worse very quickly, thankfully we were both awake and were with him in the end. We adopted him as a very small puppy in 1995 from http://www.huncote.freeuk.com/ and he had the most perfect nature, he loved everyone who came over (except a friend who regularly hunts - he was always wary of him) and would drop his latest favourite toy at their feet to play. He had an excellent bark (very helpful in the country!) and would put up with anything - even the cats fussing him and the other dog nipping him when she thought he should bark but he knew better. He always said hello when you came home. He was a wonderful friend and we are quite devastated.

Long week of weaving

2009-05-20T08:35:00.003+01:00

I am still weaving...

Moved the big loom into my sitting room as Togo has a weird thing about the dining room, since we put the new floor in, he will only go into it when we have guests. So, he has happily rested by me as I weave. Now, for those of you who have seen my tiny sitting room, you'll be wondering how on earth it all fits. I'm still wondering, but, when I had the loom made I did measure the small distance between the settee and wall to ensure that it would fit. Just.

So, the pic above is 8 metres, I am now working on the next batch, 9 metres using the same brocaded motif, but closer together on a burgundy ground. Which means it is taking twice as long.

In an effort to cheer myself up a bit, I watched The Duchess the other night. Another woeful lack of Leek buttons I have to say, though I'd need to watch it a second time to really pay attention to the detail. However, what grated throughout was Ms Knightly. Too skinny - she'd have made a good peasant at that weight, and bad posture. Someone teach that woman to stand properly the next time she plays aristocracy. Her shoulders were far too rounded. And I reckon it was emphasised even more by the corsetry holding her back straight.

Thanks for your good wishes for Togo. He's doing ok. He has some trouble panting properly, and we've figured out that this becomes worse if he has a full stomach (besides of course getting too excited or exercising too much) so we are now encouraging him to eat more in a 'little but often' method. A client of ours who imports products gave him quite a few new toys the other day and he really cheered up - he loves new toys!

Projects update

2009-05-08T08:29:00.006+01:00

A few more finished projects - Worsted wool tassels. The large pair are for use as girdle tassels and have a bullion skirt and hand-spun silk gimp for the knots. The little tassel is for a paternoster; again, with hand-spun silk gimp knot. Of course, black just doesn't photograph well, but you get the idea.

Below, is a silk tablet woven ribbon, its eventual use will be to trim a tunic circa 1180s - originally a fully brocaded ribbon was wanted, but the timescales are too tight for that, so the threaded-in design using golden yellow silk was decided on. This was lovely to work with everything else I have been worrying about. My husband likes this band better than anything else I've done (looks like I finally know what to weave for him to use as a guitar strap then...)

Sad news

2009-05-08T08:07:00.003+01:00

My lovely eldest dog, Togo (the black one in the photo) has been very ill. It has been confirmed that he has cancer, and at 14 there's not too much that can be done without alot of stress to him - and then really for no real guarantee of success. He could have days, weeks or months - hopefully the latter. As we pretty much thought we would be saying goodbye on Tuesday, its nice that we aren't - the treatment from the vet has meant his appetite has returned, as has his bark (albeit rather quieter than it used to be) and he's doing doggy stuff again - he has even been playing a bit. So long as he is comfortable and enjoying his old age than we'll be 'happy'. But its very sad knowing we could be saying goodbye at any time. Its a good thing I do have so much weaving to do really, it means that he can sleep quietly without feeling he has to be up and about doing things - if I wasn't weaving I'd be gardening, and he'd be insisting on following me round the garden.

A few more projects completed

2009-05-01T08:47:00.012+01:00

Finally took some of the pictures off of my computer! So, here's just some of what I've been working on, and why I haven't posted in a while.

The new loom, warped up for tablet weaving - this was for a silk girdle. Unfortunately, the pictures of the finished girdle are blurry, but I've been promised some when the mounts have all been fitted.

This is a 3 metre warp, and because of the distance between the tablets and back beam, the twist did not build up too quickly, so I only needed 1 reversal.

Lots of tassels! (But not quite all of the ones I'm working on, they haven't all been delivered yet!)

The black & gold, and peach & gold are for use as girdle tassels. (A very popular item this year; I've had a few orders, and luckily every one has been different)

The tassel warps for the girdle tassels were all measured up on the new loom as well - no need to get out individual warping pegs and clamp them to the table and work surface. Very handy, especially with the bullion tassels, as I needed warps of 6 metres to create the bullions.

And the second gold plate brocade. I really do like it in the red - it's quite surprising how the same design can look so different due to the ground colour, because of the way the gold reflects the colour.

I am now working on gold & silver braid - tabby woven, and on the new loom. The order is about halfway complete.

I have also been spending lots of time sorting out silk supplies for a big, very rushed job. Discussions began in Feb, but nothing was finalised until the end of last week! Of course, the date they are needed by hasn't changed and so I truly will be weaving like a lunatic when the silk arrives - a week has already been lost sorting that out.

What I've been up to

2009-04-21T09:28:00.003+01:00

Just a little 'update' post. I've been weaving like a mad woman - the gold plate finally arrived at the end of last week so the brocade is being finished. In between, a silk girdle has been woven and sent out (pics as soon as I get them downloaded from the camera) and an order of 16 metres of woven braid has been started. Oh, and a load of tassels!

The new loom is totally wonderful, I am a very happy chappy so far, and my hubby now has the task of seeing how much we can get it made for...

Keeping on track....

2009-04-09T08:59:00.003+01:00

I've recently received an image of the Tudor/Elizabethan overgown by Harman Hay, for which I made the decorative buttons, a la Janet Arnold. Of course, black on black isn't the easiest thing to see, but they are there!

I'm very busy at the moment, so if things go a bit quiet, you'll know why. Still finishing off the red brocade, and very near the end of my supply of gold plate. And the plate on order hasn't been made yet - though I'm promised they are catching up with their back orders (Good thing, as I have subsequently ordered quite a few different gilt and silver threads for other projects).

Girdle tassels, again for Tudor dress, seem to be quite the rage this year, and I have quite a few of these to complete, in different styles.

I also have a vast amount of weaving to complete. More on some of these as they are completed, but I have to say that at this point the new loom has worked brilliantly. The longest warp I've tried so far is 6m and everything's lovely - especially my sitting position. Both tablet and inkle so far are working as planned on the loom. Of course, having so much weaving lined up as work does mean I won't be able to fully 'stretch' the loom and tensioning device by using it at its longest warp, but I will certainly be able to ensure the strength -I tend to work at very tight tensioning when tablet weaving. And, as I hoped, it is also an excellent general warping frame - tassel warps for said girdle tassels are all measured and ready.

Hopefully you all will have a lovely Easter break, and perhaps those of us in the UK will get a nice Bank Holiday weekend? ;)

Article now live

2009-04-01T10:45:00.004+01:00

My article, Victorian Trimming and Embellishment Ideas, has now gone live over at the online magazine Your Wardrobe Unlock'd. Unfortunately, you do have to be a subscriber to read it. (if you visit the site, and scroll down the front page, you can see what this month's articles are all about)

Basically, the magazine is running quite an ambitious competition - 'The Single Pattern Project'. A surviving 1860s day dress has been chosen, now subscribers will be given information about scaling patterns, construction (including all of the underwear) fabrics, accessories - basically everything that is relevant to the original and to clothing of the period. After all of the advice has been given, there will be a competition with quite a few different different categories, from most historically accurate, most inventive (do something crazy!) and thriftiest, amongst others. (and this is besides the other great articles on historic costume).

So, the title of my article says it all really. There are instructions for basic tassels, fringe, braids, button covering and cord-spinning, as well as how to best attach trim to fabrics. Hopefully it will help some of the entrants.

Do have a look at the 'freebies' section of the site to get a flavour of what the magazine is all about. (Shameless promotion I know, but I am actually a subscriber as well as now a contributor!)

And will I be entering? Originally, yes, though not in the historically accurate section, as I have no need for a full Victorian day dress! Now, however, I'm getting quite alot of work lined up (including metres and metres of tablet weaving), so I'm not sure I'll have the time. ;)

Woo-hoo, new loom

2009-03-27T16:20:00.003Z

All in all, March has been a pretty rubbish month. But, there is light at the end of the tunnel - I have my new loom!

This has been really carefully designed - now I just have to hope that it works just the way I want it to -

I should be able to weave both with tablets and with heddles (either string as in inkle or a rigid heddle). I also think it will still be suitable for items such as knotted fringe.

The longest warp length is 11.6m, so providing the tensioning device is long enough proportionally, I should be able to weave very long lengths in one go. (This was the only bit I was unsure of how to work out!)

The shortest warp length is about 1m, so it will also work for samples and trials.

The lower area (cloth beam), should be in a good position for a standard chair (like a dining chair) without having to be bent over the weaving, so hopefully a bit less backache. I prefer to sit in front of the weaving, but in theory I should be able to sit at the side should I prefer when tablet weaving, by setting the warp on one of the lower posts.

There are enough posts to not only be able to warp many different lengths in between, I will be able to use these for warps for braids, long cords, tassels and bullion, so less hassle with setting up other warping posts, and less equipment needed overall. It's sturdy enough that I will probably ending up screwing a small hook into it as a fixed point for fingerloop braiding too. (though I could just secure to one of the posts).

And, it doesn't actually take up much room at all - its only about 1m long. And, it's not too heavy considering (though it's not light).

So, not authentic, but, should be very very practical for me in my small house. There's nothing worse than having too many different looms and bits of equipment taking up my space! If the tensioning device is long enough for the longest warp, I think I am going to look into having these made for sale - probably only in the UK , as I can't imagine how it could be shipped overseas - I reckon I can't be the only one who really needs this... ;)

Alot of weaving lined up...

2009-03-24T12:45:00.001Z

I'm currently working on the next batch of gold brocade tablet weaving - this time using red wool for the same client that had the blue bands. It's moving along nicely, though I'll be having break shortly as I have had to order more gold plate, and it's made-to-order so I won't get it until the end of the month. The red wool makes the design easier to see in bright light - as when the gold reflects as dark, it has something to contrast against. Very interesting.

I am still waiting for a special order of silk to arrive for a girdle that I will be working soon; it seems as though I've waited forever, yet it's still within the 28-day timescale so I'm not yet stressed about it arriving. I'm just used to it not taking as long as they say it will....

Silk ribbon rosettes

2009-03-22T18:56:00.000Z

For one of my major long-term projects, I've been playing with using silk ribbon to create bows and rosettes. The image above shows a bow and rosette made from the extra ribbon I recently wove, and I have to say that using this silk ribbon made creating these shapes SO much easier than trying to use a synthetic ribbon (which I had initially tried to use so that I wouldn't damage the silk ribbon!). Honestly, if you fancy making rosettes don't even attempt it with modern ribbons - the feel is completely different, and it just doesn't want to be manipulated in the same way.

Pheasant raids bird feeder

2009-03-17T12:50:00.003Z

Something which have made me smile this week - we have a regular visitor to our garden of this pheasant (fondly known as Butch) who waits patiently every morning while I put out the bird seed. He's not even worried about my dogs, just moves out of the way to let them pass...

Well, he's figured out that he can eat even more by flying up to the tray - probably not what the manufacturers intended when they designed the bird feeder....

Finally saw the film...

2009-03-17T12:23:00.002Z

At the weekend we finally watched Sweeney Todd with Johnny Depp. (Can you tell I don't go to the movies!) As a musical, not really my thing, (I much prefer the old favourites) though as expected, the imagery was totally Tim Burton and so that was enjoyable.

Of course we, (hubby and I) did rather spend the whole time shouting 'buttons' every time we got a good glimpse of the Dorsets I made for the film! It was quite thrilling that you could see them so often as well, when I watched the BBC broadcast of Richard II from the Globe I couldn't pinpoint anything much that I worked on due to the way it was filmed - the usual story really with such small items. It'd be just great to get my mitts on one of those 'blood' stained shirts with my buttons on it.

However, I still can't quite fathom why 300 of them were needed - dear ol' Johnny must have changed rather often ;)

Tassel and Knops styles and timeline

2009-03-11T08:27:00.002Z

I have now posted the very beginnings of the Tassel and Knop timeline to my website. It took me a little while to try to figure out how I was going to organise the information, but I think I've worked out a classification system which may well work.

I have decided to make a primary list of types and decorative styles. That way, each item found, or seen in a piece of art, can be classed - first by its type, then by any decorative techniques used. (As I go through my notes, I expect this to grow as well) In theory, this will help to keep the basic list manageable, and ultimately allow me to see what sorts of patterns emerge.

At the moment, I am concentrating on pre-18th century items, but only because during that century, so many tassels are multi-form that I haven't quite figured out a way to classify them yet. That will change though, as I have some references to some lovely 18th c tassels!

As you'll see, it's very early days, but having a system means that all of the individual notes I have collected over the years can now be organised. And I have alot of notes to go through.

I'd like to do the same sort of thing with other small items of silkwork, including worked buttons and ribbon patterns.

Silk ribbon

2009-02-26T09:23:00.004Z

Another rush job completed - 2 lengths of silk grograin ribbon at a half inch wide, as well as another length a quarter inch wide (not in the photo!). The quarter-inch was sooo cute, if I do say so myself, a lovely tiny ribbon! This will ultimately trim a gown with the little ribbon making bows.

I'm taking a tiny breather from weaving now - only in that I now have to wind off skeins and prepare for the next one!

I am looking into having a new loom made. Not anything 'historical', but something which hopefully will be practical enough for both tablet weaving and inkle weaving, and do very long lengths. Of course, how successful it is will depend on my design - I am basing it on an inkle floor loom, but with a variation to allow me to weave with tablets as well. Now to keep my fingers crossed that my friend will be able to make it. (And, if it doesn't quite work for both, it'll make one heck of a warping board!)

Lots of buttons

2009-02-20T13:28:00.002Z

I have a few rush jobs at the moment, one of which is 60 cloth-covered buttons for Jane's Wardrobe. These are for a justaucorps - 1680s - and there are 60 to complete. Of course, being the odd person that I am, I find it very relaxing making buttons, even plain covered ones... These have a card base, which is actually historical - its not something that you find in a dig of course, but there are buttons where, when the mould can be seen, is cardboard. I suspect it is less likely on the very fancy passementerie buttons, (though of course, many of these are so well made that the mould cannot be seen) but is very suitable for plain buttons.

There is also the added benefit that there is no problem finding the correct moulds, no matter what size is needed!

Another brocaded band completed

2009-02-17T14:58:00.003Z

Three and a half metres complete - in two pieces so that the long piece doesn't need to be cut when it is added to the coat.

Flattening the gold worked wonderfully. I placed the band face down on a glass placemat, and used a rolling pin to put an even pressure along the band. Not only did it do the obvious, which was to flatten the returns on the back of the band, it evened out the tone on the front as the gold has fewer 'bends' from the weaving. This has really helped it reflect the light better, which meant I actually managed a few photos I was happy with :-) It changed the flexibility of the band too - it is hard to explain as its something that really is more noticeable by feeling the band - it just felt different afterwards. I think it will be easier to sewn onto the garment as well.

Yes, we had some snow too..

2009-02-03T10:59:00.004Z

My garden, about 4pm yesterday. Lovely!

We're sort of snowed in - actually, it's more like iced in. We're at the top of a hill, on a rural road, so when its icy you can get down, but can't get back up! It happens at least once a year anyway so it's not something to stress about. And one of my dogs is so happy - he adores the snow and would stay out in it all day, so it is worth having.

Gold brocade weaving progresses

2009-02-03T10:17:00.007Z

The Anglo-Saxon gold brocade is moving along nicely now, I have a good pace going. My upper arm muscles are feeling it too - there are two lengths to work and quite long so hopefully my muscles will be nicely in shape by the time the nice weather arrives ;-)

Originally (read about here..), I had warped onto my long band loom, with the intention of using warp weights. My gold brocade band of last year had been warped onto my large inkle loom, and I had found it very easy going, but the gold plate had scratched into the beams to such a degree that I didn't really want to risk causing more damage. However, because of the mistake, and not wanting to actaully waste the materials I had warped, I was then left to having to use the inkle loom again.

I'm very glad I did. I have noticed a real difference to my own working comfort due to the fact that I can sit with the weaving directly in front (going out) as opposed to running side-to-side (so therefore working from left to right). I seem to twist my back more working brocade the second way, whereas with the work right in front of me I can work for longer periods.

I have also noticed that the weave itself is more even. The 'mistake' band seems to have the warp threads closer together on what would be the left side of the band, which is the 'top' when working side-to-side. I assume that this has alot to do with the weft thread hanging, therefore pulling at that edge of the weave.

Most important though, is that the gold plate itself seems to lie flatter and is more easily turned when working head-on to the band. So - perhaps I'll just have to sand down my beams later on! So all-in-all, making the mistake has been a very good thing.

The next experiment for the 'mistake' piece - (its great to have something to experiment with actually), will be to try to really flatten the gold plate, as many finds show happened - the plate was flattened and burnished after weaving, ensuring that the threads made an impression in the gold. Of course, the Anglo-Saxons were using pure gold and that is really quite simple to flatten, the modern version, despite being 'Admiralty' standard, still contains more base metals than the early stuff. But I'd like to try to get the plate as flat as possible, to ensure that it reflects the light as evenly as possible - you can see from the photo that otherwise the slightest bump in the plate reflects differently, which results in the pattern not being as clear as it might. And perhaps it will make the band itself easier to photograph? The top one - so that you can see the gold, is too dark for the wool, whilst the next shows the blue very well, and the gold not-so!

Request for help

2009-01-26T10:16:00.004Z

I'm trying to compile a list of existing tassels (including decorative knops) and anything resembling buttons (hand worked- not metal, wood, etc) pre about 1600/50 - particularly medieval - for a project I am working on. The theory is to try to map out a timeline of techniques used before the advent of the passementerie trade as we now know it. If you know of any - on the bottom of extant purses, or decorating anything else, could you let me know? Any info at all will be a big help, but if you do know where the item is held (or picture published) that will obviously be even better.

Thanks!

Start as I mean to go on..... let's hope not!

2009-01-14T13:46:00.005Z

If it can go wrong it has it seems. Working merrily away on the new brocade tablet weave, only to notice a print-out of the last discussion with the client, where the number of edge tablets changed. And of course, I warped up to the original discussion. Most unlike me, I usually am very thorough with these things, I blame it on the 28 day waiting period for the wool to arrive... (I can't really continue to call myself 'stupid'!) So, I've warped up a new band and have started again. The silver lining? Well, I've almost caught up to where I was on Sunday when I discovered the mistake, but even better than that, the band looks much better somehow, so a bonus. And at least I will have a length of brocade for the portfolio! Hopefully 2009 won't be filled with silly mistakes (perhaps I am just getting old).

Another set of little purse tassels - this time using silk chenille for the skirt, to compliment the chenille embroidery on the bag. The bag's not quite complete, hence only a cropped pic!

And a happy new year to you!

2009-01-05T15:24:00.003Z

Here we are again, back in the swing of things perhaps! And snow too - my dog is a very happy chappy as he thinks snow is better than a ball! I hope everyone had a nice holiday, we got caught out just before the break with the horrid stomach bug thats going around, and to be honest, it's taken a while to feel recovered. Even now, our stomachs are still a bit tender which of course wasn't fun on Christmas day, and only the smallest drink to bring in the new year... Still, managed to have quite a creative period without turning on the computer for days (that in itself felt pretty good!) and managed to get quite some way with the various writing projects, including the illustrations. So, I should be well on my way for the deadlines I have to meet.

I have also started on the next commission of brocaded tablet weave - this time another Anglo-Saxon design, with gold plate (not gilt) and fine wool. The wool is a deep blue and the contrast with the gold is quite stunning. I have quite alot of this to do in a fairly short time, so this will be the main priority over the next month.

My website is in need of some updating; to this end I have finally added the report on the 18th century tassels which I restored and repaired. I put a note into this regarding dating simply from the item itself (which basically put it anywhere prior to the late 19th century), but as the tassels came from a small stately home, their own date of the 18th century (when the house itself was renovated) really should be trusted. You can find the pdf here.

And, in an effort to keep this blog a little visual, here's one of a set of four little purse tassels -

I actually thoroughly enjoyed doing the needlework on the pear-shaped mould, a technique called limace spirale in French, time-consuming as it was!

I also watched (probably) one too many repeats of costume dramas - there really is a woeful lack of leek buttons on film and tv, even the newer dramas. Shame that. Perhaps I ought to start up a Campaign for Leeks in Costume or something...

Happy new year to you all!

Cosy...

2008-12-12T10:10:00.003Z

The brocaded band had arrived safely in the Netherlands - hurrah! That is the worse bit; waiting for something to arrive safely. I have terrible visions of having to re-do something because the postal system screws up. This is to trim a hood, and I can't wait to see it complete. The 2% gold plate has arrived for the next big brocade project, but the wool hasn't (though I don't expect that for another couple of weeks).

I did say I'd keep my blog more visual, but as I've been writing and researching, (my main job for the month) there's not alot to photograph, so here's a pic of my lovely cats all cosy in front of the fire yesterday. Oh to be a cat, no stress, just lots of cuddles...

Tablet woven brocade, completed.

2008-12-05T16:58:00.003Z

It's finished! Actually, I finished on Saturday, in time to clear the loom from the front room so that I could entertain, but it has taken me a few days to get a decent picture, thanks to the poor lighting and my not-so-good camera skills! Gold threads are difficult to photograph at the best of times.

The thing is, these bands were originally meant to give the impression of solid gold. They were most often seen inside, by candlelight. So, the gold sparkles and the ground weave fades off. Modern cameras and lighting however are so sharp and clear, that every bit shows up - its not always a Good Thing!

On another note, I was given a fantastic present this weekend - some lovely antique netting needles, including a couple of super-fine ones, and even more exciting, some original button moulds! In a size which is really hard to find today, and even harder to have made, as they are small so a bit of a pain for woodturners to bother with. I was so thrilled by them I sat and sorted them all out into sizes and threaded them into matching sets. Simple pleasures! Also, if I can removed a jammed piece of my spinning wheel, I should be able to get it working - there doesn't seem to be any pieces missing, and at least I now understand what it should do. My intention is to ultimately use it for plying silk as I do find it hard to find weights I need for specific historic projects.

So, I now have a little bit of a 'breather' before major work starts again, primarily because I will be waiting about a month for the supplies for the next bit of weaving to come through. I'll be working on the various writing/research projects I have promised - starting well in advance, seeing as two aren't needed until the summer. Sometimes I surprise myself by my organisation. (ha, I can actually see myself getting totally sidetracked and working on something else entirely, in the name of research....)

Nearly there!

2008-11-28T10:04:00.002Z

Only 7cm to go on the gold brocade! So someone may well be getting it in time for Christmas... (though I really don't want to tempt fate at this point). And then, in the new year, I will be starting on another, although this time it will use gold plate, so the going will be quicker.

I realise that my blog hasn't exactly been visual lately, so next year I will try to do better.

Thanks to those of you who replied to my question, it was rather as I thought, tassels always seem to be the most popular, which at least means my idea is on the right track. So, in tying both together, (pictures and questions) here's a picture of a tassel based on those found on purses from the 16-17c. I think I have pretty much figured out the technique, though it does seem that every one I see is slightly different. That would make sense, as the ground weave can be done in a number of ways, so it would have been down to the individual maker's own choice. But now, to figure out how to explain it in simple and clear terms. Should be interesting.

Tomorrow I may well be spinning, if my friend Ruth can figure out the old spinning wheel I was given years ago. (And of course that there's nothing missing - it was part of a shop window display for years!)

Some more suppliers

2008-11-14T09:52:00.002Z

I think I must have broken through my glass ceiling, as the weaving seems to be going much quicker than it has been. I've got a rhythm to it now - something which seemed to be missing before and what made it difficult; I find I thoroughly enjoy weaving when I have a good rhythm. I have even managed to shave 5 minutes off the time for a pattern repeat, so it now only takes, on average, 10 minutes for 7 mm...!

I've been restocking some of my supplies and have found some great suppliers out there. One, Silken Strands, has been particularly helpful and best of all, they do a very large range of gimps (rayon) in a good variety of both colours and quantities. It is called Bourdon cord on their website. The gimp is nice quality, quite fine, and there are a whole range of colours which actually match very well with hand-dyed silks so nothing too garish even though it's not silk wrapped. They haven't got online shopping facilities, but they have been so quick and helpful, its worth the extra effort.

I also placed my first order with Lacis, and I managed to behave myself as looking through tools can be very tempting. And, hurrah! they do button pins. I have been looking for these everywhere, and simply can't seem to find them in this country. I'm really pleased by that. They despatched very quickly - in fact their order arrived before one made in the UK so that was brilliant. I'll photograph them as soon as I have the chance.

I am also at the very beginning stages of two projects and so I'd like to ask you all - what passementerie technique you'd really like to learn?

All that glitters

2008-11-07T08:59:00.003Z

The fine gold brocade is still going on. I have to admit to finding it very frustrating - I can work at it all day and get no further forward as it is all so delicate. But, I am still on it and will not let it defeat me. But, I have learnt a few things along the way.

The first is that energy saving lightbulbs are really not a good idea. Over the course of the summer my whole house has had it's bulbs replaced as needed. And, during the summer that was fine. But now that the light has changed, I have moved the loom through 3 different rooms trying to get some light that was decent. Daylight is the best, which of course there isn't alot of at the moment, but I have found that with the energy saving bulbs the light is so bad in the evening that I just can't see the difference between the gold and the silk. I was tempted to light some candles at one point, but one of my lovely cats is a bit stupid about things like that. So, for a few days, that ruined evening weaving (a big deal when you do have a day job!) until I could go out to get a daylight bulb for a lamp. Which is much better. Last year's Saxon brocade didn't have this problem, despite being woven during the winter. So, it was either a brighter winter last year or the old fashioned, add-to-my-carbon-footprint bulbs were simply brighter. Which is what I suspect. Which begs the question, as we all change bulbs, will we be seeing an increase in eye-strain and headaches as a result of the poor light? Or will people just not bother to do things like read when its dark?

I also really have gained a new insight into silkwomen's work. Which is, after all, the reason that I first began learning how to do this silk work. Although, there is the arguement that many gold brocade bands, being ecclesiastical in their end use, where actually woven by nuns. And I feel rather more like a nun contemplating the world with something as time-consuming as this, than a business-woman building up stock holding! So, if bands such as this were made by professional women, how quickly did they work I wonder?

Still, at least I have a wonderful excuse not to do some housework.... ;-)

A little break

2008-10-17T09:15:00.004+01:00

Mental note: I must keep the blog up-to-date...

Still working on the brocade, slowly but surely! I did take a little break however to pick apples as it couldn't wait any longer, my trees are heaving with the weight. I am still working my way through the bags to try to make them last - alot of peeling, coring, blanching and freezing. At this time of year I also start eating alot of dessert, as it's horrid to think the apples might go to waste! (its a good excuse for apple pie though, isn't it?)

And one other little job in between weaving - making these two buttons for my friend Ruth, to match the bit of fabric she sent through. They are quite small buttons, and use hand-dyed silk, - it was great that I had in stock the perfect colours.

Medieval gold brocade

2008-10-07T10:05:00.003+01:00

Here's my current project on the loom. A very narrow silk ribbon, tablet woven and brocaded. The ribbon is 1.2cm wide, and is loosely based on one recovered in Deventer, which dates from the 14th century. The original is not described as being brocaded, and although it does appear to be - using silk probably as opposed to metal threads - the pattern was the basis for this band. It is possible that the original is a pattern weave, although in the one black and white picture available there does appear to be floats on the reverse of the band.

This is taking me forever! I do enjoy brocade, the end result is so pretty, but as this is so fine it does seem to be going on forever, I sometimes wonder if I will ever finish it! ;-) One pattern repeat is approx. 7mm long, and that takes, on average, 15 minutes. I have managed to cut that down a little when I get going, but you can tell from those numbers that this will be a long project. However, I know that ultimately it is going to grace a hood, for a member of a very good living history group, and it is always nice to know that something is going to be used 'properly'!

And so, I should get on with it!

Elizabethan buttons

2008-09-16T17:08:00.003+01:00

Back from my little holiday - which I thoroughly enjoyed, especially doing some fabric shopping with my mother! (You can never have enough fabric I say..)

Just before my break, I completed some silk buttons based on those found in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion, from circa 1596, for a costumier. Although the originals have a white foundation thread, which shows at the top (making a little star shape), we decided to go with a black foundation thread so that the whole button was black.

Getting wooden forms today of the right shape and size is really quite difficult. Luckily, in the same book, Ms. Arnold shows a very similar button with a core of fabric, so I decided to make the forms using the same method as for Dorset High Top buttons. This worked really well, but I am still trying to convince my hubby that ultimately he needs to get a small lathe and turn me all of the button and tassel molds I will ever need! (Of course, then we have to decide where that goes...)

The silk itself needed to be twisted up to get the correct weight - cord twisting really is something I'd recommend anyone working with silk and doing historical work to gt well practiced with. Silk of the correct weight historically is very hard to get, it it so much easier to simply twist up what you need.

So, on to my next project, a lovely medieval gold-brocaded band, which is warped up and ready to go.

Its all in the details

2008-09-05T09:30:00.002+01:00

It looks as though summer is well and truly over doesn't it? And now I'm about to take a little time off - perfect timing... !

Those of you who know me are aware that alot has changed just recently, and as such we've been to a few events this year as Mops (Member of the Public). Mainly to see what's now happening within re-enactment generally, and to meet up with people I know virtually only online. These events have been both multi-period and medieval. And I have to say that generally, I've been pretty disappointed.

I'm not an authenticity-freak - far from it actually. I realise the limitations that things like budget can present, and so I don't go overboard. But the standards generally, particularly with women's kit, was really disappointing. (Why is this? Women usually care a bit more...) 5 years ago it was much higher. Its all about the detail.

And believe it or not, I'm not talking about having hand-woven trim all over a gown, despite that fact that's what I do! I'm talking about the basic 'look' of an outfit. For instance - a late 15c gown, trimmed in fur. Not enough fur, as the hemline gathered in so the gown did not fall in straight lines. But there was worse to come - over this gown was TWO girdles - one thin leather belt, and over this a wide leather belt. And hanging from the thin leather belt was all manner of bits - including a hunting knife and purse. When have you seen a painting depicting a woman wearing bits hanging from the girdle which is over the gown? With the exception of a rosary (and this hooked over the wide girdle) never. Which is why information on women's purses is so much harder to find then men's. And a hunting knife? Why? No. A woman of the status this re-enactor was supposedly depicting would not have worn this, and any other bits would have been well hidden under the gown, if they were there at all. And this wasn't an isolated incident either. This seems to have been the acceptable norm with the women wearing gowns.

Speaking of gowns, I suspect there's a new pattern doing the rounds, as I've seen quite a few with the same bad cut to the back. It just doesn't have the correct silhouette.

I've seen women in Victorian or Georgian dress, without corsets and slouching terribly. Detail! The dresses look a mess without the correct under support (I even spotted a bra strap!) and Posture! If you're going to wear something with lace and silks (real or otherwise) stand up straight! If you want to slouch, wear something a peasant would wear. And undergarments aren't just important when they are foundation garments - I saw a women on a horse - all posh looking medieval at first glance. Her gown laced up the back, but not tightly. And she wasn't wearing anything underneath so was showing skin!

I've seen horrible cotton velvet - honestly, a rayon velvet would look much more like the real thing. The furs - if you can't afford enough to trim properly - don't use it. Or source one of those excellent fakes which are available today. I've seen some which are so good that anyone just watching you wouldn't know the difference. But the right look can be achieved. I've seen women wearing what's supposed to be posh kit with linen kerchiefs - or worse, nothing covering their heads.

You can see that the medieval re-enactors irritated me the most, being as it's 'my' period, and I suppose this is rather a rant. However, I know, for a fact, that many British re-enactors think that they know it all, and always have it right - and that people in other countries (USA in particular) ALWAYS get it wrong. However, from what I've seen this summer, this really isn't the case.

And by the way - I do know there are some excellent groups out there! And I don't mean you!

Ok, rant over.

Taplow brocaded band in use

2008-08-15T12:13:00.005+01:00

The last few weeks have been sooo busy and I do need to get this blog up to date! However, for the time being, here's a picture of the Anglo-Saxon gold brocaded band in use. It's running along the edge of the man's tunic, from should to hem. And isn't it a great picture? Thanks Mike for letting me post this.

A few people have asked about the gimp machine, well, I think the machine is good, but the operator needs some serious practice! It will eventually need some tweaking, because the motor only spins for a z-twist, and I think it needs wheels. Eventually I do hope to get a picture up, but I haven't had as much time to get it right as I'd hoped yet. But at the moment, all it is is a motor with a hook - so nothing special to photograph anyway!

Fingers crossed the weather hold a bit this weekend - its the Bosworth Medieval Festival, which was rained off last year!

Grene dorge and gimp machine

2008-07-21T16:53:00.005+01:00

Pretty silk laces! Happily, these laces have safely arrived with the customer in the US, so I can now put up the picture. The wonderful aiglets are hand-crafted silver-gilt, as always perfectly made and fitted by Gary Smedley. The name of the design used for these is the Grene Dorge (instructions can be found in my book, Tak V Bowes Departed) and it's always a pleasing braid, both to work and to look at.

My clever, talented and wonderful husband has made me a gimp machine - basically a motor to turn the core thread while I wrap so now I can do lovely long lengths. It's on a stand, and I can move it to wherever I want - its great having a husband who can work these things out for me! Of course, I'll need practice to get the gimp smooth and even, but it does mean that I will finally be able to sit down and try some Georgian fly fringe. I love the stuff, and have been wanting to give it a go for ages now.

Gorgeous buckle

2008-07-18T13:47:00.002+01:00

The red silk girdle I made some time ago now has a beautifully stunning, hand-crafted, silver-gilt buckle and strap end, so I had to add this link to Jenn's blog. Its always so nice to see something I've created being finished so nicely, and I must say, so accurately! I can't wait to see Jenn wearing it!

It went well

2008-07-18T12:41:00.003+01:00

The Soper Lane session (The Hole Craft of Silkwork) at the International Medieval Congress in Leeds went well - it was very well attended and we had alot of good questions afterwards as well. The picture above was taken during the question time. (me checking a picture reference!)

Many thanks from both Elizabeth and I must go to Debbie, our moderator, who did a fine job, and Machi Sasai, who's paper (The Connections of Silkwomen in Medieval London) was very interesting and contributed greatly to our knowledge of silkwomen in London and shed light on many working relationships. Elizabeth's paper, (Many Goode Householdes Kept: Estimating the size of the Craft in the 15th Century) gave us some very interesting details of the number of women working as silkwomen - she really has found quite a few! My own paper, (The Art of the Silkwomen) I hope gave listeners a better understanding of what medieval silkwomen actually did! There is a possibility that the three papers will be linked together, a section on silk dyeing added and then published. So, fingers crossed on that one!

Although because of travelling time (I was only able to attend for the day due to other commitments) I wasn't really on campus for very long, but I was very pleased to meet some people I only know of by name, and to see some old friends who I haven't seen 'in the flesh' for some time (you know who you are!). It was also very nice to co-ordinate some research, and begin talking about new avenues to persue.

This past weekend we rather insanely decided to reupholster our Victorian settee. Don't try this at home! I'm still aching, that was seriously hard work. At least now it time for the fun stuff - attaching nice hand-made cords on all the seams and making new cushions and curtain tassels to co-ordinate. I figure because I make these things, I can't really pop into a shop and buy some, can I?

All set for IMC

2008-07-03T13:42:00.003+01:00

The paper's written, the OHPs printed, and the train tickets booked, Leeds here I come! I'm only able to go for the day, which is a shame, but I am looking forward to it all the same. I suspect I'll still be making small changes on the train on the way there, but hopefully nothing too drastic...

I said that my garden was like Springwatch at the moment, here's a couple of pictures to prove it. No telephoto lens - this baby was so new he wasn't scared (peanuts were far more interesting!) and my hubby was actually this close. Isn't it adorable!

Besides working on the other tassel, I've been obsessing a bit about 'point de milan' at the moment. I'm sure that it is a variation of the chevron buttons, but I am having difficulty getting it to work well over a shape other than a ball. The thing is, most of these techniques have a 'hard way' - which is usually the first thing you figure out, and an 'easy way' - the way that it becomes obvious someone doing something for a living has to work it. I just haven't quite gotten that! Then of course, I will need to find some originals to inspect, to double-check, as opposed to just looking at images. I'll get there in the end.

First tassel complete

2008-06-27T09:22:00.003+01:00

The Richard III Society study day at the weekend was really enjoyable - there was a terrific turnout, the other speakers were very interesting and I met some really nice people. It was also perfectly organised, something which always makes things like this go well.

Now, to get my Leeds paper completed. I always seem to make another change each time I read it. I'll probably still be doing that the night before....

The first of the tassels is now repaired. This is the one that was in pieces. I have really enjoyed working on this. Isn't it wonderfully mad? I just love it.

Above, you can see the old and new together. As you can see, the cord and the skirt remain original, although the skirt on the 'new' has been cleaned and turned, so that the slightly less damaged and brighter silk shows through. Likewise, the rosettes keep what silk was there originally, which is why they are a beige colour as opposed to white, while the centre buttons have been recovered. The gold decorative cord was all re-used by cleaning and turning it. Surprisingly, there's actually more damage to the wood moulds on the 'old' tassels - quite a few of them are broken and will need repair.

Above shows the embrace coulant, again I was able to re-use the gold decorative cord, but as with the tassels, all of the red and white cords needed to be made. With this, I also had to spin up some gold silk for the decorative stitching, as the weight of the original thread isn't a 'standard' today.

So I'm now looking forward to getting on with the next one...

And other than that? Well, my garden has been the best place to be. We set up a bird feeding station in January, and we have been more than rewarded. Baby birds galore! Robins, blue tits, great tits, wrens, gold finches (which are really really greedy) chaffinches, and lots of others, and yesterday a baby woodpecker. Still no baby pigeon though... And despite seeing some birds regularly (such as wagtails) I haven't seen their young yet) So, with those and the owls and pheasants and rabbits and bats, I reckon they could have filmed Springwatch in my back garden!

More tasseling

2008-06-16T17:08:00.002+01:00

The silk has arrived, and work on the 18th c tassels has begun. I am working on one tassel at a time, and have removed all of the old silk, retaining the decorative cords where ever possible, and making very complete notes of the silk, how it's wrapped, the mold shapes and sizes. Above, you can see some of the molds in various stages of completion - the white ones remain white, with no other decoration. The flat blue ones also have no other decoration, while the others will have quite a bit to add. You can see that I have begun putting the original red cord back - some was too damaged to use and I will be winding some to match - it like the white cord that will need replacing, will require me to make a fine gimp thread first. The gold braid, though quite worn, will be able to be used again. I also have to repair one of the molds, which has a decent enough piece missing to make re-wrapping in it's current state impossible.

However, the big thing this week is finalising my talk for the Richard III East Midlands Branch Study Day on Saturday. All's going well, but can I find an image I particularly wanted to show? It's on one of the many CDs I have, but it hasn't made it's appearance yet. I'm really looking forward to this study day, there will be quite a few interesting speakers and from what I understand, quite a few tickets have been booked.

So, alot of this week will be put to use writing - my IMC paper also has some fine tweaks required, and then straight into a piece for the Braid Society. It's all go...

Passementerie: repair and restoration of antique tassels

2008-06-09T13:04:00.004+01:00

I have just started on a very exciting project, the repair and restoration of a pair of antique tassels. The owners believe the tassels are 18th century, although they could be later, and while analysing and making notes about the originals before I begin, I hope to be able to date them a little more accurately.

There are two tassels, both are very very worn and faded. They have hung without being touched due to their fragility, but, the final straw came when a child pulled one apart (the stately home in which they hang is often used for events).

(above: the intact tassel)

As you can see from the picture above, of the unbroken tassel, most of the silk has worn away from the molds and the tassel has alot of damage. The photo below shows the pieces of the second tassel after the destruction! (There is still, thankfully, a cord and the skirt).

The tassels are, I would say, still pre-1850s, as the dyes used are natural dyes - the blue has faded to white in exposed areas, while the green has turned yellow (the blue overdye having faded). This points to the use of indigo, and certainly before the invention of chemical green.

I have decided that I will do a sympathetic repair and clean - some parts are obviously very dusty. This will mean that where ever possible, I will salvage the original decorative cords which decorate the various elements. However, all of the silk covering the wood has worn away on the exposed edges, so each element has to be picked apart in order to salvage the cords that remain, as they are laid over the worn silk. You can see what I mean in the photo below -

The gold coloured cord is in fair condition (although worn in some areas of the gimp) and so should be able to be salvaged by removing, gently brushing, and turning over so that the unworn underside is now exposed.

In this way I hope to be able to supply finished, useable tassels, which retain as much of their original elements as possible, without actually making new tassels in the style of.

The main cords have also become very worn - the silk covering each element has worn away from the core threads in most areas. However, they are still very strong, and the core threads are, in the main, dyed to similar shades as the original silk, so the overall impression is still of colourful, complicated cords. Because of this, I will retain the original cords.

The cords which decorate the various elements of the tassel really do show the extent of the cord winders art - these tiny cords are so delicate and tightly twisted! Most of the white cord however if very badly worn - broken in many cases. So, this will have to be replaced, by spinning my own gimp and cord. It is interesting about the white having so much damage, despite being so well made - I suspect that it has something to do with the bleaching process of silk. I've seen this same type of damage on a piece of medieval fringe in the V&A; the white silk was broken and worn away to a much greater extent than the blue and red fringes.

I will post up details and pictures as work, as I feel that much of this project will be a real learning exercise.

Personal Diptych, medieval style

2008-05-19T15:56:00.004+01:00

The 'gold stars' project from many, many moons ago has long been completed, and finally delivered to the recipient at the weekend. (It needed to be personally handed over - just couldn't trust this to the post!) So, I'm really pleased to be able to show some pictures now.

First, the outer bag -

The purse is made from hand dyed 100% silk velvet (indigo), lined in linen and trimmed with silk tablet woven braids at the edges and the top. These have been woven onto the bag, not sewn on afterwards. The estorils were made separetly, and sewn onto the bag after cutting them away from the linen ground. Added decoration on the bag's face are gold threads couched into place and sterling silver spangles. The tassels and braids are all silk, the tassels topped with turk's head knots, and the 'slides' on the drawstring laces are a silk and gold chevron weave. (the red is all commercially dyed)

Then, the inner case -

A simple leather covering, with silk fingerloop braids to close, with a piece of very fine hemmed linen inside. These are to protect the very special item inside -

A medieval style (15th century) personal diptych, painted by Mark Barrett (yes, my husband!). The panels are gessoed oak, the paintings worked using the medieval glaze technique, which consists of slowly building up the colours with very fine glazes to allow the depth of colour to remain. St Andrew is after a Memling work, while the Virgin & Child are after Van der Goes. Although he did not mix his own pigments on this occasion (it was his first attempt at this technique), he did ensure that his palette was limited to only those colours available at the time.

Below, the back, as this too will be seen when the diptych is in use.

This little diptych was designed so that it can be used during living history events, hence the addition of the bag to protect it. And the next one? One for me, only this time the paintings will be in the Italian style as opposed to Northern European, with the Virgin and Child and St Francis.

Gold & Silver Braid

2008-05-12T18:20:00.006+01:00

Here's my final reconstruction of the gold & silver braid for Luton Museum. I'm very pleased with the end result, although it was a little awkward to weave; the silver weft kept breaking the very fine silk warps either side, despite my best efforts at not letting it touch! The picots were fun- using a pin to twist them - something I hadn't tried before. All in all, very pleased.

I am glad it's May....

2008-05-09T16:21:00.003+01:00

April was, quite frankly, a horrible month, hence no posting at all. I am glad that it's over with - things can only get better...

Still, despite a major 'stall' being put on all projects, I did manage to work the first trial of the Luton braid, and even that I merrily did incorrectly. A lovely braid nonetheless, but not something which mimicks the original correctly as my concentration levels weren't what they should have been. The picots either side just aren't 'right'. So, I have begun again, and thanksfully the new braid on the loom is just what I was aiming for.

(The first Luton braid, silver, silver gilt and silk threads)

I also made these lovely girdle tassels for Emma from Raphael Falconry. The black and green are filament silk (over wooden molds for the ball shapes) with a filament silk skirt. The lattice work is real gold thread, with the knots made of gilt gimp. The lattic work took alot of time, but really made a difference to the overall effect I think - especially when you see the final result below of Emma in her finery (all wonderfully made by Ninya Mikhaila).

Tudor-style girdle tassels

Emma in her finery

All other projects went to standby, so I've nothing to report with any of them I'm afraid! So, onwards and upwards and here's hoping that May is a good month!

Purple or green, that is the question....

2008-04-04T17:24:00.003+01:00

My previous post was quite right - it has been a busy time! Still, a couple of the projects are now completed, and I'm very happy with them.

Above is the velvet purse for Luton Museums, silk velvet hand dyed with woad with all tassels and laces also hand dyed and of filament silk. The knots are gilt gimp (from Benton & Johnson - I love that company!) And below is the leather purse (for Luton again) - the leather is naturally tanned sheepskin from Traditional Materials - lovely to sew and a beautiful colour, lined with brown silk. The tassels are hand dyed filament silk, again with gilt gimp knots. The purse bar is from Medieval Designs in Italy - I really like the simplicity of this design, and it is very well made and their service is very good. (They have an English version of their website - do click on the link on the home page if you need it!)

I should have the new supplies for the braid shortly, so hopefully the larger sizes will be what I need and the reconstruction will work. I am looking forward to it, but I think it will be quite shocking - the original is an archaeological find, so is dirty, tarnished, etc. Using new gilt and silver threads, with natural silk gives an overall impression of white (as it's so shiny) - very different to the current look of the original!

One of the chairs is also re-upholstered - the fabric doesn't look quite as yummy as it actually is in the photo below, its more of an 'icy' tone - quite hard to describe. It would make a lovely coat. Would it be so wrong to have a coat that matches your chairs?!! It would be quite naff I know, but it is sooo tempting as I'm pretty sure I'll have more than enough fabric left (had to buy a whole roll you see...)

My hubby and I have just about finished redecorating the spare room. The main wall really needed something, which is quite hard to decide just what - we both paint and create and so on, and deciding what would look right, bearing in mind what's on the other walls, was proving to be a bit of a nightmare. So, we decided not to commit, and go for something in a style neither of us have ever really worked on. And on Sunday, we had extra time, as we spent the day waiting for someone who ended up not arriving - you know, you feel you can't quite get stuck into anything? So, using some of the same paint we used for the walls, and some off-white cotton fabric, we made up interesting pieces of patterned fabric, cut them out, scrapped a few which weren't right, and sewed them onto another piece along with jet beads from my 'I'll use this someday' box, ribbons braids, tassels and other bits I've played around with, and some buttons - including covered buttons using more of the printed fabric. We enjoyed collaborating so much (we usually just add our two-penneth to each other's projects) that we are already planning something quite extravagant - and quite different - for the next piece....

My embroidered hanging has also been started. I was going to post a work-in-progress, but it really doesn't make any sense at this stage, so it will have to wait...

And THE question? Well, when the front room has been redecorated, the craft/art/messy project room will be. And I can't decide between purple or green walls. Deep purple, or lime /apple green (depends on the manufacturer!). Most of the walls are covered with shelves, which in turn are covered in books and boxes of stuff, so to be fair, it isn't as drastic as it sounds to want to paint all of the walls such an intense colour, you won't see much of it! But I simply can't decide which I'd prefer...

They say it will snow this weekend, so keep warm everyone!

Keeping very busy....

2008-03-12T12:07:00.003Z

It seems to be a really busy time of year for me at the moment, but I do seem to work best when I am busy. I've done two trials for the Luton braid reconstruction I am working on and still am not entirely happy with the results. I have decided to order slightly thicker gilt and silver threads, but these need to be specially made, so that is now on hold for a week or two. I am also working on two purses for the museum; a small silk velvet drawstring bag, which will be trimmed with silk and gold, and a leather bar purse, also to be trimmed with silk. The leather has just arrived (authentically tanned) and is lovely - almost a shame to cut it!

Besides that, I had a 'brainstorm' and decided to re-upholster two wing chairs that belonged to my late mother-in-law. I haven't actually started, but have bought the fabric - quite a lovely one! and will begin stripping one of the chairs this weekend. I know, insane, but I am looking forward to it.

And with all that, I also have an embroidered hanging to begin. The sketches are complete, almost all of the materials ready, and the ground fabric stretched onto the frame. This will be my 'chill-out' project, as I always find embroidery quite relaxing. Mind you, I do intend to try 'or nue' on part of it, a technique which I have been warned is exceptionally time-consuming, but the final effect can be so startling that I do want to attempt it at least once.

So, pictures of the various projects should be posted soon, as they happen!

Embroidering a 17c phone case!

2008-02-27T09:41:00.003Z

Sorry it's been a little while; I have been so busy with projects and work just lately. I have been working on a few projects for Luton Museum - two purses and a reconstruction of a braid recovered during a dig. The sourcing of materials for the braid took a little time, but I think I may be on the right track. I will post more pictures of this as the project progresses.

Regular work has also been busy, but alot of the time has been taken up the continuing revamp of our house. And planning birthdays and our anniversary (23 years this year!). I'm sure the house will finally be the way I want it this year. Well, that's the theory anyway.

In between time, I embroidered a little case for my new mobile phone. It was a nice way to refamiliarise myself with some embroidery stitches I haven't used in a while and a phone case is small enough to be able to work when taking a break from commissions. The pattern designs are based on some found on a 17th c jacket which is in the V&A - it is shown in 'Historical Fashion in Detail'. (A truley inspiring book...) . I have used silks and antique gold threads, alongwith silver spangles. The very intense red and darkest blue are commercially dyed, the other colours all hand dyed. I am really pleased with the result, the shame is that it gets hidden in my handbag!

I also very happily worked on some mini puncushions, using an idea I saw in a magazine. As I like to have a different box (or more often tin) for each type of project and the tools that go with it, I usually also need a pincushion for each. I made about 5 in an evening, although one has been rendered unusable as my cat just loves it. She hasn't torn it up or anything, just steals it to play with, so I won't be putting any pins in that one.

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Other news - I am very pleased to have been asked to speak at the forthcoming Study Day organised by the East Midlands Branch of the Richard III Society. The theme for the day will be "Peasantry, Gentry and Nobility"

This study day will take place on Saturday June 21st at the Leicester Adult Education Collage and the full list of speakers is as follows:

"A Peasant's life in Medieval England" by Gareth King
"The Paston Family" by Dr Helen Castor
The Silk Weavers of Soper Lane" by me!
"The Kingmaker's Sisters" by David Baldwin

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So, did you feel the earthquake last night? Weird. I though my chimmney had fallen (it is a very old house!) - it was the only explanation my mind could come up with! Is it just me, or are these tremours becoming more frequent? I don't remember any when I was a kid.

The longest month....

2008-02-01T10:18:00.000Z

I don't know why, but January always seems such a long month. Probably because it's one month I'm never very keen on (who is?) but it always seems to really drag. Still, it's over now, alongwith all of the paperwork and everything else that goes with it. The holidays are now just a distant memory.

Its been a busy couple of weeks for me. Besides all of the mudane things that have gone wrong (family illness, car, house, you know how it is), I have still managed to be pretty creative. I've had a large tassel do make, and am working on some proposals for Luton Museums for some re-created items. Sourcing a close type of gold and silver thread is always interesting.

My nicest news was finding a coat in the sales. A few years ago I wouldn't have bothered buying it, despite liking the style (and price!), because the buttons were, quite frankly, horrible. More annoying, they hadn't been sewn on well at all. That really irritates me - what's the point of putting buttons on if they aren't going to be sewn properly? Anyway, as soon as I saw this however, I knew that my embroidered buttons would look great. However, as opposed to simply replacing the buttons, I took my time and made the buttons removeable - I can now make another set for those days when orange just won't go. Not everyone knows how to do this, but it is a nice way of adding new life to an item, and by making the buttons removeable, you can still clean the item without ruining fancy buttons.

Basically, you sew an additional, smaller button to the reverse of each button, making sure that you create a shank (needleweaving works well for this, but you can just wrap the shank). The secret is to have your shank the right length to ensure that TWO layers of the material will fit. Then - and here's the part alot of people don't like - you need to remove the old button and make a buttonhole in it's place - to fit the SMALL button. Then, you simply pop the small button into the small buttonhole (the larger button will cover the buttonhole edging and no-one will be any the wiser), and button up the garment as normal. I love using this method - it's a great way to update cardigans too!

Gold brocade complete - and embroidered buttons

2008-01-10T10:49:00.000Z

The Taplow band is now complete, and will now go out to the costumier who is making the tunic it will trim. I am quite surprised at how flexible the finished band is, normally I weave so tightly that my bands are quite stiff. However, the width of the gold plate (1mm) limited how tightly I could beat this piece. It moves very well, and I think will work perfectly for trim. Hopefully, I will get a picture of the finished tunic.

Other little projects I have been working on - some large embroidered Georgian style buttons. I wanted to work out a pattern for the discs, what size fabric I needed and so on, and so made these. The gold spangle in the centre of each is antique - and I only had 10 - so, the buttons pictured at the bottom are variations as I'd already marked out for 12! :)

I'm really pleased with how they turned out, despite the fact that there aren't enough for a Georgian coat. The molds for these are simply cardboard and it works well, as the silk ground has a linen backing (I stretched the linen to the frame and then tacked on the silk), so the buttons have enough bulk without being too large to use. Although to be fair, most buttons of this type were never actually used on a Georgian court coat - the coat was left opened to show the stunning waistcoat. (Some even have only a few buttonholes stitched). I've decided that I like the effect of the large spangle so much I will have to source more - the ones I had were from a Victorian box of goldwork material (some lovely items in that). The other spangles are sterling silver.

Being able to occasionally get hold of old materials has just been a big help. I'm currently sourcing materials for a recreation of a medieval band for a museum, and the French metallic threads I bought happened to have one reel of silver, twisted in 3 strands. One of the strands is just the size and type I need, and much finer than I would be able to find as a standard - so I sent some off to Benton & Johnson and they are able to match it for me. I'm thrilled - I really thought I'd have to unstrand all of the antique stuff - and clean it....